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z1 - compression low after wiseco kit rebuild?
- emy111
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thanks for your response.
I'm going to pick up a set of adjustable cam gears and try to set the lobe centers to 105.
Just out of curiosity...
Based on my photos, I don't have the cams off 1 tooth do I?
Also, I'll try your jetting recommendation and tweak from there.
thanks,
-Ed
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- Old Man Rock
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Maybe this will help... @ 1/4 TDC, lobe tips should aim as in right hand image to deck height...
Notice left image left intake cam off 1 tooth, slightly higher off decking...
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- emy111
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- Old Man Rock
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As far as I can in this image, left is high, right is lower than decking....
Rotate crank cw (forwad) 17mm crank nut under ignition plate.
Rotate where exhaust cam tip # 4 parallel to deck height.
You'll most likely find the 1/4TDC is not matched and intake came lobe is off as well...
Henceforth, not on the marks so to speak....
You can run @ 110 LC if you choose, just get them to align correctly at 1/4 TDC....
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Dr. Gamma
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I ended up with a 62 slow jet, YY7 needle on 4th notch,120 or 122 main jet, but only a 180 or 190 air correction jet. If I ran a air correction jet of that size 230/250, it would never drop down to its idle speed. Plus if you backed off at high RPM's it would just coast, no real engine brake. With the 190 air correction jets when you revved the motor it would instantly drop back to its idle speed, and tons of engine brake when you backed off!! Could running air filters change the jetting that much.
I ran 1015 or 1105 motors with about 12 to 1 actual compression. Cams were either Yoshimura Super Bonnevilles(.400 lift 275 duration) or Norris 440sc's(.440 lift 282 duration) Yoshimura ported heads with 37.5 intakes.
I know out here in AZ I will have to run air filters because of all the dust. Its like living on the back straight at Eldora during a World Of Outlaw feature!!!
1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!
Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.
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- emy111
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I'm thinking my cam timing is off.
I'll verify when I get home.
Like I said earlier... the bike seems to run pretty damn good.
And it's pretty darn fast.
Lets say my intake cam is retarded 1 tooth.
Would there be any potential engine damage from this?
Keep in mind I just did a 3000 mile trip.
I took photos of where the cams were situated when I initially disassembled the engine.
And I just put the new cams in as the old cams were.
I wonder if the cams were off when I got the bike.
Like I said... it was a junker.
Thank you again for all your responses.
-Ed
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- emy111
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Thanks for your input about your jetting specs.
Aside from cam timing... I'm going to try and make some needle / jet adjustments based on your feedback and OMR feedback.
-Ed
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- sbc1320
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emy111 wrote: Lets say my intake cam is retarded 1 tooth.
Would there be any potential engine damage from this?
Keep in mind I just did a 3000 mile trip.
-Ed
Nope not if it is running good like you say. If you had bent a valve you would notice it. Recheck your timing marks again. Good luck and you have one good looking KZ there to be proud of.
1980 KZ1000 LTD-B4(MK II engine) - Progressive suspension, MTC pistons, Dynojet Stage III, all wear items replaced, WFO paint scheme(1978), etc..
Past bikes- 2 1976 Kz900's, 5 1975-76 Honda CB750's, Honda 500 -4, Honda 250, Honda 125, Honda 100, Suzuki RM 250, Honda XL350, Kawasaki KLR 650, etc..
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- emy111
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I got home from work and pulled the valve cover off.
First image is where the lobes fell since my rebuild and during my long trip.
I rotated both the intake and exhaust cam 1 tooth advanced as seen in the second pic.
They look like they line up better now. Lining up directly at the T mark.
What do you guys think?
I went for a ride and the bike seems a bit faster now.
Seems to idle better too.
Compression also jumped from 125 to 175ish.
I increased my main jet from 110 to 115. It feels good.
I still plan to do adjustable cam gears and actually set lobe centers to 105, but until I do that... do the cams look like they're lining up more closely to how they should be?
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks.
-Ed
Before
After
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- Jeff.Saunders
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The stretch (wear) can confuse as you'll end up with the cams mildly retarded or off a tooth if you are not careful.
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- emy111
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I did not replace the cam chain. I would guess there are 15k miles on it.
-Ed
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- Old Man Rock
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Damn, looks 100% exactly like my first OFF Lobe center image with that build.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Now, you can leave it @ 110 lobe centers if you choose, probably save you some $$$ and a whole lot of headache not having to deal with CAM Degreeing... Pending your riding style, desired power band range (low, mid or WOT throttle), idle conditions or desire just to learn.
Also, possibly I missed it but was the head ported as well... If the old girl hauls ass as is after this timing adjustment, get your carb jetting correct and go for a ride.... If she purrs like a kitten at idle, pulls like a rape ape for ya, then shit leave it for now and enjoy your ride. You can always go the adjustable cams later on if you choose...
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.