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Chain Maintenance
- TheDude
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What's your experience from the x-ring chain, is it hype or is it the real deal and a better make?bountyhunter wrote:
Z1 had the best buy on a good X-ring chain when I needed one.TheDude wrote:
that sounds like a good idea. I'll do that. Is there a chain you recommend? .650ed wrote: That sprocket looks shot to me. I would replace both sprockets and the chain. While you have them off you can clean the surrounding areas. Ed
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 A3
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- 650ed
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TheDude wrote:
What's your experience from the x-ring chain, is it hype or is it the real deal and a better make?bountyhunter wrote:
Z1 had the best buy on a good X-ring chain when I needed one.TheDude wrote:
that sounds like a good idea. I'll do that. Is there a chain you recommend? .650ed wrote: That sprocket looks shot to me. I would replace both sprockets and the chain. While you have them off you can clean the surrounding areas. Ed
I have read that the x-ring does have some advantages, but if you keep the o-ring chain lubed with a good chain lube it will last a VERY long time. Mine has 20,000 miles on it and I am quite sure it will not need to be replaced until at least 50,000 miles. As far as having it replaced and adjusted, I would suggest you do the work yourself, but ONLY if you buy the Kawasaki Service Manual (not Clymer or Haynes) for your bike, follow the instructions to the letter, and use the correct tools. The manuals are usually available on eBay, but be sure to get one for your exact year/model as there are differences. Read the instructions carefully and understand them before starting the job, ask any questions here, and then start the work. It is not difficult to do, but without the instructions you can make mistakes that can cause safety or performance problems. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- TheDude
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I'll do just that: buy a kawasaki manual, read, read some more, prepare, then do the job.
I'm going to most likely buy the x-ring chain in the near future as well as new sprockets.
How do I find out which sprocket types to buy?
On Z1 there are a few different types of sprockets to buy from (16 tooth, 17 tooth).
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 A3
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- TheDude
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I just found a DIY motorcycle shop 15 minutes from my home that provides space, tools, and lifts to work on your bike for a fee.
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 A3
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- martin_csr
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As for cleaning & lubricating the chain, I use LiquidWrench chain lube regularly, every 200-300 miles. The LW is readily available & cheap. It goes on wet but dries to a film that's similar to 90W gear oil. There is some chain sling, but not much. For cleaning I saturate the chain until dripping wet, then wipe off the excess... pretty much the same as 650ed. Sometimes I use a clean cloth dampened w mineral spirits.
The use of the wd-40 to clean a chain seems like a rather common practice, but I have no idea if it's a good idea or not. Some guys use it as a cleaner & lube.... I have no idea if that's a good idea either. The stuff isn't a very good penetrant, but is is a solvent, and the lubricant is kinda thin.
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- Grumpy Ole Artist
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- Eschew Obfuscation!
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1978 KZ650 B2
Former rides...1976 CB360T, 1985 Shadow 700, 1985 GPZ750Turbo
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- koolaid_kid
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A well maintained o-ring or x-ring chain will last many miles. I put 20k miles on my GS1100E chain with 2 adjustments, and it was still going strong when I sold it. The key is proper maintenance. Clean it, lube it, adjust it, and align it when you adjust it. Alignment is critical, as important as everything else.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- kaw-a-holic
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Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
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- sbc1320
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Grumpy Ole Artist wrote: "Water displacer, formula #40" FYI....don't spray it on anything you really care about! By that,I mean that while it does have some lubricative properties when wet, after it dries, the film it leaves behind is actually corrosive! I REALLY put a hurting on an old Stevens .22 rifle by treating it before storing...pulled it out 6 -9 months later, and there was surface rust all over it! Be warned! The can says one can use it for such things but DOOOOOON''T DO IT!
That's because it is a pentrant. I have told many friends not to use it for oiling a gun. It will actually wipe all the oil off and then the gun is unprotected. It is made mostly of fish oil. I have been caring for our family guns since I was 10 years old and all of them are in excellent condition, never using any WD40 on them though.
Like stated sprayed on a rag it will clean the chain without any issues at all.
1980 KZ1000 LTD-B4(MK II engine) - Progressive suspension, MTC pistons, Dynojet Stage III, all wear items replaced, WFO paint scheme(1978), etc..
Past bikes- 2 1976 Kz900's, 5 1975-76 Honda CB750's, Honda 500 -4, Honda 250, Honda 125, Honda 100, Suzuki RM 250, Honda XL350, Kawasaki KLR 650, etc..
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- bountyhunter
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I think it's smart to get the best chain because you are paying to replace the sprockets too, so get what lasts the longest. I have had really good service from the chain I got from Z1.TheDude wrote:
What's your experience from the x-ring chain, is it hype or is it the real deal and a better make?bountyhunter wrote:
Z1 had the best buy on a good X-ring chain when I needed one.TheDude wrote:
that sounds like a good idea. I'll do that. Is there a chain you recommend? .650ed wrote: That sprocket looks shot to me. I would replace both sprockets and the chain. While you have them off you can clean the surrounding areas. Ed
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- bountyhunter
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+1000 WD-40 is made to drive water out of mechanical assemblies, it's not designed to be a lubricant.Grumpy Ole Artist wrote: "Water displacer, formula #40" FYI....don't spray it on anything you really care about! !
Lowe's sells the Dupont multi-use Teflon spray that goes on wet and dries and leaves a waxy sheen. Works great. Just hose it on the chain and forget it. Doesn't fly off.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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