Low Compression

Should that have been .05 mm ? The Z1 manual calls for clearaces from .002 to .004 inches. The feeler gauge that I am using has inches and mm on it. The .002 inch guage also has .051 mm stamped on it. I have also already disconnected the battery.

Yep....you are correct. Messed up my decimals :silly: :whistle:

I am still curious if the shim is supposed to be in constant contact with the cam or is the feeler gauage suppose to pass completely between the shim and the cam ?

There should be no contact at all when lobe is pointing away from shim/bucket. Feeler Gauge must pass completely between shim and cam. If there were any contact.....when motor gets hot while running everything would expand and the cam would then keep the valve partially open which would mess up compression etc. etc. BTW I don't know if it's been said but the valve gapping has to happen when motor is stone cold.

This is what I did as a newbie.

I bought the tool.

CHecked the torque on the cam cap bolts.

Removed shim and replaced after recording the number on the shim and where it went. If the number was not present I used a micrometer to measure.

I used the 17 mm nut to rotate the crank until the lobe was 180 degrees from the shim I intended to measure. Almost all of my shims were of a different thickness.

If I could not get a feeler gauge between the cam and the shim I went 2 sizes down for a start.

By moving the shims around I only had to replace two. My local Yamaha dealer traded my shims for the size needed and two dollars per shim.

Best luck,

OK, thanks. I did do the valve clearance while the bike was old. I should be getting my shim removal tool Friday, so hopefully I can get the shims out this weekend.

One other thing. While I was trying to measure the clearance between the cam and the shim, I was able to rotate the shims, so they are not tight against the cam, there is just not enough clearance.

then i would drop one size. Its not complicated once you get started it will seem to get alot easier. Just follow the advice given on here and youll be fine.

BIGKEVIN wrote: One other thing. While I was trying to measure the clearance between the cam and the shim, I was able to rotate the shims, so they are not tight against the cam, there is just not enough clearance.

You can also find feeler sets with a .001" gauge that might slide under. Otherwise, assume a "loose one" that won't take a gauge is at 0.000 and calculate the shim based on that.

I got my ZSM001-113 shim tool today and tried to get the shims out to measure them. I turned the highest point of the cam down to depress the valve, but I couldn't figure out where to put the tool to keep the valve depressed so I could get the shims out. The tool didn't come with directions and probably isn't hard to use, but as usual, I probably made it harder than it is. Does anyone have a video or good directions on how to use to the tool so I dont mess up the cams or the valves ?

Ive never used that kind of valve shim tool. I always use this kind.

store.schnitzracing.com/motion-pro-valve...wasaki-kz900-kz1000/

I already have the other shim tool, so I hopefully don't have to buy another one.