Low Compression

I had to take my cams out. Used a valve spring compressor to remove springs, then a magnet to pull the valve lifter out. The shims were underneath the valve lifters. Your bike may be different.

Very different system....KZ 900/1000 are shim on top of bucket and the KZ 750 is shim under bucket. The shims are different sizes as are the techniques for changing them.

Spectre1982 wrote: I had to take my cams out. Used a valve spring compressor to remove springs, then a magnet to pull the valve lifter out. The shims were underneath the valve lifters. Your bike may be different.

Take the cams out, ok. The shims are underneath the valve lifters, as long as you mean buckets, then ok, but why in the world would you need a valve spring compressor?

steell wrote: but why in the world would you need a valve spring compressor?

+50 ??

I am hoping to get the valve clearances measured within the next couple of days. In the meantime, I guess I'll be ordering the special tool from Z1. I'll post my findings when I get them done. Thanks for all the replies and helpful info.

I was going to buy that tool, but couldn't stand paying as much in shipping as the cost of the tool. So, .125" thick aluminum, sander and a pair of calipers and I had what I needed. You can rotate the engine so the cam lobe depresses the shim, then slip the tool between the cam shaft and the edge of the bucket, rotate the cam lobe so it's no longer depressing the shim and voila, the shim can be removed. As mentioned before, make sure the tool clears the shim or you'll have trouble putting the shim back in. You can also use a bent broad tip screwdriver to depress the shim/bucket. That's basically what the Motion Pro tool is.

Couple tricks - rotate the bucket so the small slot is visible before installing the tool. Use a small screwdriver in that slot to pop the shim out of the bucket. Fish the shim out with a strong magnet stuck to a screwdriver, like a neodymium magnet.

Alan

Just a general rule of thumb i was always taught. If the shim is to tight to get a feeler guage in but the shim can be spun with your thumb while the tool is NOT in there, then drop one size and remeasure. If the shim is to tight for the feeler guage and you CAN NOT spin the shim with your thumb or finger than drop two sizes and remeasure. As far as getting the shim out of the top of the bucket i always use either a straight pic or a really small straight screw driver and a magnet. The bucket can be turned. There will be a little place somewhere around the top that is notched so you can get something in there to pop them up. Just be careful to not let the driver slip and scratch the cam or anything stupid. Then just pull them out with the magnet. It shouldnt have to be a real strong magnet. I use a harbor freight magnet that telescopes. If it can pick a good size socket up it will be plenty for you.

steell wrote:

Spectre1982 wrote: I had to take my cams out. Used a valve spring compressor to remove springs, then a magnet to pull the valve lifter out. The shims were underneath the valve lifters. Your bike may be different.

Take the cams out, ok. The shims are underneath the valve lifters, as long as you mean buckets, then ok, but why in the world would you need a valve spring compressor?

Ha, you're right. I guess should have thought a bit longer on it. I just got done removing the head and doing valve work. You WOULD need a valve spring compressor for that job. Sorry for my unintelligence and bad info.

I checked the valve clearances today and I could not get .015 inch feeler between the cam and the shim on any of the lobes. I have not ordered the special tool yet. Does anyone have any ideas ?

There are no shortcuts here....Just get the tool as you are going to need it anyway and you will not be able to find out any info on your valve gaps with out it. Once you have that you can proceed from there.

I am ordering the special tool now. When the highest point on the cam lobe is pointing straight up, you should be able to put a feeler gauge between the cam and the shim ? The cam doesn't have constant contact with the shim ? This is my first time doing this, so please forgive all of the questions that I have.

No problemo, You are correct about the method of measuring....the gap should be no less than 0.5 and can go up to to 0.8 on the intake side and about 0.7 to 1.0 on the exhaust (mine are give or take 0.8 intake and 1.2 exhaust) The official Kawasaki range for all valves on your bike is 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm. All those numbers are in millimeters not inches. If you can spring for a metric feeler gauge set it would benefit you as all the measurements on the shims are in millimeters. Have fun man

edit: Make sure to take your time....one valve at a time. Also do everything slowly, after you set the shim tool you will then have to rotate the cam away so the can lobe is pointing directly away from the bucket so you can change the shim and sometimes you will have to rotate the cam in different directions so you don't jam the lobe into the tool.....very costly mistake if you are moving too fast. When rotating the cams you do this by turning the crank after you have removed the points cover and disconnected the battery) by using the 17 mm nut and not the 12 mm one.