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shims
- vondikka
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78 KZ650 C2
76 kz400 D3
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- bluezbike
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79 KZ 1000 LTD
77 KZ 1000 B1 LTD (awaiting electrical resurrection)
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- wireman
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- The most interesting prick in the world
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posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.
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- Patton
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RonKZ650 wrote: Yes, you need to lock the tensioner as you already know. This is the 6mm bolt on the side of the tensioner body. To lock the tensioner, simply remove that short bolt and thread in a longer bolt that will tighten against the tensioner to hold it in place. After this is done remove your valve cover. If you're careful and no moron has used gasket sealer you can remove the cover without ruining the gasket and it can be reused indefinately. Now to be safe turn the motor over clockwise with a 17mm socket on the right end of the crank until your timing marks for 1-4 indicate TDC. Now look at the cams and see the arrow on the exhaust sprocket pointing straight forward aligned with the top surface of the head and your intake facing straight back lining up with the top of the head. If the arrows are not this way, turn the motor over 1 complete revolution until 1-4 are again at TDC. Now you have cams in correct position should an accident happen during disassembly. Now the way to remove the cams as to not disturb the timing. Of course first remove the center idler sprocket from between the cams and now work on one cam at a time. Remove all 4 cam caps from one cam, push down on the chain where your center idler was and at the same time lift the cam towards the center of the engine. Be sure and keep the chain tight going down in the engine and keep all slack between the cams. Once the cam is in the center of the engine you can do your shim swaps, then carefully reposition the cam in place. The important part is keep all slack between the cams and the chain always tight going down into the engine. Bolt up the caps and you're done with that cam. Repeat for the other cam. Do it right and timing has not been goofed up. This is direct from Kawasaki 4/77 service bulletin. Get it all bolted up, reinstall your short bolt in the tensioner and you're done. Tighten cam caps to 8ft/lb or less.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Old Man Rock
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Here's a link to later year model but pretty much the same.
Free KZ650 service manual
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- 650ed
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Old Man Rock wrote: You need to get the service manual is what you truly need...
Here's a link to later year model but pretty much the same.
Free KZ650 service manual
+1
Trying to replace shims without using the Kawasaki Service Manual will be the kiss of death to your engine. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Matteson
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A more accurate explanation would be nil on the "no clearance" because there typically is some clearance just so tight a gauge cannot read it. You will need a shim that is small enough to put in the place of that shim to give you an idea of where to start with in sizes for the nil reading. Have fun. And keep it clean. Very clean.vondikka wrote: how do i remove the valve shims in my 78 kz650? I have no clearance on number 4 and want to install a smaller shim, but don't know how to remove the original. Does it require a special tool?
KZ 900-a4
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- vondikka
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78 KZ650 C2
76 kz400 D3
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- vondikka
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78 KZ650 C2
76 kz400 D3
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- vondikka
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- vondikka
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78 KZ650 C2
76 kz400 D3
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