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stripped spark plug hole...
- apbling
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I REALLY don't want to pull the head, mainly because it's not my bike and I'm reviving it for a friend. Aside from finding a new head off ebay or something, what are my options?
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- The_Proletariat
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- "Cocaine is a hell of a drug"
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1982 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
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- Patton
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Often, there's a lot of good undamaged thread remaining deeper inside the hole past the shallower cross-threaded area.
The challenge then becomes how to perfectly re-thread the shallow cross-threads to sync perfectly with the deeper good section.
It may be possible to re-cut the cross-threads by starting at the deep end with a reverse tap, also known as a back tap.
The reverse tap inserts all the way through the spark plug hole, and then the tool's deep end expands to begin tracking along the good threads from the deep end, and re-cuts the cross-threaded section as the tool proceeds upward and out of the hole.
It's akin to having the head off, and re-threading the hole in the normal manner starting with the good threads on the piston side of the plug hole.
A reverse tap accomplishes the same result, but without needing to remove the head.
Here's a pic of the reverse threading tool.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- kzz1king
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Wayne
74 Z1 1075, 29 smoothbores, owned and ridden since 1976
Home built KZ1000 turbo setup
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532476...s-budget-turbo-build
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532489-74-z-makeover
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- apbling
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The real question...I have a steel timesert...Can I use it, or should I get an aluminum one?
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- Kidkawie
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- I bleed premix
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whatever you do, bring that cylinder up to TDC and lock it there. In case anything falls in and so you can vacuum out any debris.
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- apbling
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I agree. I think my plan was to have it positioned just a hair after the intake stroke, that way the intake valve is opened, but not full open. The piston would be slightly lower too (that way I don't hit piston or valve with bit or tap). I planned on having my shop vac or aircompressor blowing air into the intake and hopefully out the spark plug hole as I drill and tap. Afterwards I planned to slowly rotate back to TDC and vacuum out any remaining debris. I also planned on greasing up the tap so the shavings stick to it.
What about the steel insert in the aluminum head? that ok?
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- Patton
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Engine head may be readily removed with engine remaining in the frame.apbling wrote: ...Tried to get motor out of frame, but someone welded the shifter on, hence can't take the sprocket cover off, hence no motor out of frame, hence no head off motor to do this job...The real question...I have a steel timesert...Can I use it, or should I get an aluminum one?
Where a timesert is needed to replace and serve as threads in an aluminum engine, would use a timesert made of steel. I didn't know timeserts constructed of aluminum were available.
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- mattb
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It has been in for many years and many miles, with plugs going in and out and I have had no issues with it.
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- Kidkawie
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apbling wrote: What about the steel insert in the aluminum head? that ok?
No prob, spark plugs are steel. You need to locktite the insert in place.
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- apbling
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Yes, blue loctite was in my plans.
Patton - Head cannot be removed. It's a 73 Honda CL 350 and the studs run from the case, through the jugs and cam cover. All that can be removed in frame is the cam cover.
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- Patton
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Thanks, apbling!apbling wrote: ...Patton - Head cannot be removed. It's a 73 Honda CL 350 and the studs run from the case, through the jugs and cam cover. All that can be removed in frame is the cam cover.
Should have remembered that. :ohmy:
If needed, here's a link that provides a free downloadable Factory Shop Manual.
www.mediafire.com/?5f3menxnmzm
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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