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KZ750 N1 Spectre Won't Start
- newOld_kz1000
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- FlimFlamFlibbityFlee !! BoonFryedShickaMuhZee !!
jjackson7 wrote: Okay. I checked timing by pulling a plug and turning the crank and timing is right. I had the battery on the charger all morning and when I tried to start it again it ignited a couple times (like a weak cough). I'm gonna track down a portable battery jumper and check it out. I'm hoping it's that simple.
Dang good sign there son, good job, unless your rotor is magnetized, you have the type of electrics that requires a healthy battery to run right.
WITH THAT IN MIND, here's a 2-minute way to see if your battery is the problem:
1) you said you've kept the battery charged -- verify it reads at *least* 12.55 volts WITH ONE BATTERY TERMINAL disconnected, ie. measure the battery's voltage *disconnected* from the bike. If you don't yet have at least 12.55volts -- each of the 6 cells puts out 2.1 volts DC if the battery is charged up and not old -- if you don't yet have at least 12.55volts measured on the battery when disconnected from the bike, charge it until it reads AT LEAST 12.55 volts ONE HOUR OR MORE after the charger is removed (the battery always reads higher for a time right after you take it off the charger, so give it 1 hour to 'settle' before you check for 12.55vdc minimum)
2) if the battery reads 12.55vdc minimum, hook it into the bike's + and - terminals.
EDIT: if you charge and charge your battery but you *never* get it to read at least 12.55
volts (it should read, actually, 2.1vdc x 6 cells = 12.6vdc, hence the 12.55vdc
minimum) If you can't charge your battery where it reaches and holds at least 12.55vdc
ONE HOUR *AFTER* YOU HAVE REMOVED IT FROM THE CHARGER, your battery's plates have
lost the ability to provide proper voltage, which happens, batteries don't last
forever, batteries are a "wear item" -- get a new battery and don't waste any time until
the battery is "known good."
3) turn on the key switch but DON'T START IT, don't start the motor, just turn the ignition to 'On'
4) now with the ignition on, engine not running, read the voltage across the battery
5) if it is below 10.5 volts DC that is a problem.
THE ABOVE IS CALLED A "LOAD TEST" for the battery.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- jjackson7
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-Jordan
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- donthaveakawman
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Listen to ed he knows what he is doing, and most of the time what you are doing also- no wonder I have trouble sleeping. little battery little amperage also there is the ground wires and terminal wires. maybe you will even need to fill the battery cells with distilled water if they are not topped up.650ed wrote: You haven't been using a high amperage battery charger have you? Motorcycle batteries need to be charged at 2 amps or less otherwise they won't last. Ed
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- donthaveakawman
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180 degrees off? are you sure? the crank rotates 2 times per cam rotation. I am not sure, but if yours has the "non points" ignition you can tap a screwdriver against the magnet and the plug should fire.jjackson7 wrote: Took valve cover off and indeed it looks like I was 180 degrees off. Re-installed the camshafts very meticulously and now I'm waiting on the battery to charge again. I'll check compression on all cylinders in a few and try it again.
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- jjackson7
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- donthaveakawman
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