camchain and mystery part?

double post

Yeah, as has been pointed out, its the front cam chain guide and it broke off right before the part that has a hole for the screw to go through. Mine broke as well.




I had to use an impact wrench to get the screw which holds it in out (this is normally installed with tread lock). I used some heat for insurance at the base were the screws sits, before using the impact. It wasn't easy getting it out.



I would also drop the pan while you are at it and clean up any debris (mainly hard plastic parts from the guide) in the pan and oil pump screen.
Here is a good picture of the the screw.


P.S. I had an error im my Clymer in which caused me to overtighten the tensioner mounting bolts and strip them a tad. I have also heard that there are some bad torque specs in one of the manuals for the cam cap bolts. I would confirm these values and save yourself some head aches.

Heres some pics. pic of good parts.
Pics of different pistons. High comp and stock.
Your pistons are in the middle, maybe 10.5 to 1.
Those skinny skirts look like Yoshimura road race pistons.
Tear it down and spend Thousands :woohoo:
I'm glad I'm done! I spent 1/2 of my 401K on Kawi parts over 35 years.
Yes it was worth it :evil:

Piston looks like a Yosh, or one of those e-bay Chinese copies.

Here are some more pictures of the pistons.
I found the screw for the guideband will attack it tomorrow.
How do I know what I need for rings for those pistons.

Also is it normal for thecam chain to slip on sproket





when I turn over the engine slowely while holding the chain up tight.?

APE Jay wrote: Piston looks like a Yosh, or one of those e-bay Chinese copies.

Does you pistons have these markings on them?

KZJOE900 wrote: Yeah, as has been pointed out, its the front cam chain guide and it broke off right before the part that has a hole for the screw to go through. Mine broke as well.

I had to use an impact wrench to get the screw which holds it in out (this is normally installed with tread lock). I used some heat for insurance at the base were the screws sits, before using the impact. It wasn't easy getting it out.

I would also drop the pan while you are at it and clean up any debris (mainly hard plastic parts from the guide) in the pan and oil pump screen.
Here is a good picture of the the screw.

P.S. I had an error im my Clymer in which caused me to overtighten the tensioner mounting bolts and strip them a tad. I have also heard that there are some bad torque specs in one of the manuals for the cam cap bolts. I would confirm these values and save yourself some head aches.

Ill drop the pan. I think I would like to avoid a complete tare down if possible. I didnt know what it was so I had a hrd time getting results from the search here so I had to post.
Thanks for your help. Any suggestions on a owners manual that would be good? for this bike.
I have two 79kz1000 b3 bikes but both engines are different. For instance I was gonna use the stator off this bike for my daily rider and It was different. The one on this bike im working on is a small stator and the one on my daily rider Is much bigger.

4TheKZ1000 wrote:

APE Jay wrote: Piston looks like a Yosh, or one of those e-bay Chinese copies.

Does you pistons have these markings on them?

Attachment T2eC16RykE9s7tdOqBRDw-FzLig60_57.jpg not found

Not sure! Ill check

It doesn't matter. The reason you are pulling the chain taunt is so it doesn't get jammed up as you turn the crank. When you reassemble everything and put the cams back in, you will be resetting the 1/4 T mark again and using the marks on the cams to get the cams back to the proper sync with to each other and the crank shaft. As long as you do that part correctly and all the marks are in their proper orientation then everything else will be golden.

I think what he is asking is do you think his Crank timing sprocket is worn out. I'm saying probably not it takes a lot of tension to hold it on the sprocket with out "slipping" but you can check when you pull the oil pan.

elfmagic17 Ya your right that is my question. Ill check it when I have the cover off.Thanks

4TheKZ1000 wrote:

APE Jay wrote: Piston looks like a Yosh, or one of those e-bay Chinese copies.

Does you pistons have these markings on them?

Attachment T2eC16RykE9s7tdOqBRDw-FzLig60_57.jpg not found

Here are some more pics of pistons. As you can see the only markings is a F.
Any ideas what I would need for rings?
I took one piston out and have attached pics if markingscon inside. Best I can make out is HAIND
Do you think by the looks of the head gasket it hasnt been long since someone was in this engine?