BENDING AIR

LarryC wrote: Nads....when you get that thing done....bring it around and I'll bet you $100 you can't even keep up with my ZRX11 :kiss:

How will you know if you have 95CFM or 75CFM...tape measure? yardstick? dipstick? lipstick?

Don't need to know how much the head flows I'll be able to feel it feel it.

Outside of my garage, the world is a dyonmometer, I can't race anyone with

my head off on a flow bench, coffee time is long over..

It's time to purue virtual reality only.

If your bored I'll send you a ball of string :woohoo:

:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

QUOTE "Don't need to know how much the head flows I'll be able to feel it feel it."

Ah yes, the trusted assometer! recording data for engine builders for decades!

If you think you can do a cylinder head better than guys that have been doing this for decades then go for it.
IF you do it better, then show us and prove it. (1/4 mile time slips or dyno sheets)

Ive been using my assometer,which is connected to my pacemaker for many years to tell me when things are working just right! :woohoo:
Too many variables with dynoes,hp only helps is you can control it to the ground.
So Im gonna vote for the number that lights up at end of the track! :laugh:

wireman wrote: So Im gonna vote for the number that lights up at end of the track! :laugh:

Works for me!

Yes variables on dynos, but digesting the printouts before and after modifications on the SAME dyno will show gain/loss if you are not just looking at the peak HP numbers.

I had my old 1327 dynoes at 2 differant shops in omaha under really close conditions and one said 125 and change at rear wheel and other one was closer to 145 with same tune up,I must of had lighter air in the tires that day! :blink: :woohoo:

theres a thousand variables at the track too though

wireman wrote: I had my old 1327 dynoes at 2 differant shops in omaha under really close conditions and one said 125 and change at rear wheel and other one was closer to 145 with same tune up,I must of had lighter air in the tires that day! :blink: :woohoo:

Wireman rolls up to yet another long stop light.

The cold sweats and shivering limbs take him over, at his age he doesn't know

if he's got enough energy left to sand and hone again this week.

In his garage lies a broken down old turbo on his work bench, empty 5 hour energy drinks,

booze bottles practically cover the floor. If one more nooisy blue colored object comes out of that garage, the neigbors are going to have a public hanging. :whistle:

Youve obviously met my neighbors! :woohoo:

z1wiz wrote: QUOTE "Don't need to know how much the head flows I'll be able to feel it feel it."

Ah yes, the trusted assometer! recording data for engine builders for decades!

If you think you can do a cylinder head better than guys that have been doing this for decades then go for it.
IF you do it better, then show us and prove it. (1/4 mile time slips or dyno sheets)

I got something to show you that may prove it. The time slip and the knowledge
are

like a social and dl. When you have one you don't need the other :whistle:

SO> forward with school. I'd like to start todays session with the regards to the fact:

Looking at certain head porting gurus: velocity must be kept up.

I agree, makes sense and all that. So goes the old adage IF YOU KILL THE VELOCITY :S :S

Are the faces you make when you turn off the dyno.

Where it gets interesting to me:

The old kz head is restrictive and limits the potential on large cc motors.
The gpz or j head is also.

Put the two side by side and compare port size and valve seat inside diameter.

OH NO! (for those who may know where I'm headed)

Kz has smaller ports and small seat dia.
Gpz has large BOTH.

Common sense tells me if I enlarge the valve inside dia. on a kz head,

I'm not going to suffer a velocity drop that isn't counteracted by the

EXTRA FLOW FROM OPENING THE HEAD UP, allowing the kz head to flow closer

to the gpz. Is there anyone out there that can tell me the head will flow
less?

AND WHY THE HECK IT WOULD. The cat out of the bag or am I just a nut case? :blush:

If both answers are yes, :woohoo: :woohoo:

increase velocity?
get travelocity?
explode with ferocity?

Or just open the seats and go faster? You can run but you can't hide.

The secret is knowing where to remove it and how much to remove.
Its kind of like replumbing a house .You can replace all the plumbing from inside the basement wall clear up to 5' away from each fixture with 3/4" copper and then 1/2" to the fixtures from there thinking youll have lots of volume and pressure.
Problem is if youve got a 1/2" lead water service between the 6" main in the street and all that new 3/4" inside the house it dont work so good! :woohoo:

nads.com wrote:

LarryC wrote: Nads....when you get that thing done....bring it around and I'll bet you $100 you can't even keep up with my ZRX11 :kiss:

How will you know if you have 95CFM or 75CFM...tape measure? yardstick? dipstick? lipstick?

Don't need to know how much the head flows I'll be able to feel it feel it.

Outside of my garage, the world is a dyonmometer, I can't race anyone with

my head off on a flow bench, coffee time is long over..

It's time to purue virtual reality only.

If your bored I'll send you a ball of string :woohoo:

Save your string...you'll probably need it for the tow job home after the motor comes apart on you again :kiss:

Since you don't have any real tools and you've armed yourself with all the wisdom you can find on KZR...here'a tip for you the DIY guy....

Make the intake port runners the same size as the diameter of your binki and the valve seat opening the same size as the nipple off your baby bottle.... :woohoo: