BENDING AIR

A KZ 900/1000 head does not have issues with the air sticking to the floor. Rig up a test fixture using a simple shop vac and something for a cylinder. Take the valve out of the port. Stick in in the guide upside down to plug the hole. Take a long piece of thread / fine string attached to a rod.

Fire up the shop vac and let the string feed into the port... watch where it goes in the two outside ports and the two inside ports....

A rounded port floor will gather the fuel into the middle of the floor. Not good for distribution.

Then put the valve in the correct way with a light spring and do the same test...

Everybody likes to lay the short side way back...... It's not the way to go...I'm not saying why..

steell wrote: You want to make air stick to the floor over the bend?
Aircraft designers solved that problem long ago, they're called vortex generators and they're spaced out along the leading edge of the wing on some aircraft. I read a Master's Thesis I discovered online about this very subject, the author claimed a 20% increase in flow by simply placing tiny pyramid shaped objects randomly just prior to the short side radius. On the USAF C-141 aircraft the vortex generators were just diamond shaped pieces of aluminum. Read the same thing in NACA (NASA now) research papers.

All you need is something (~6) small to cause turbulence on the floor before the short side radius.


Clear as mud?

Look at the ribs cast into some of the old cast iron intake manifolds.....same concept

Ive got a j head sitting on my bench that somebody else did a cleanup job on ,when I get back from my trip out west in a couple weeks Ill pull it apart and do an autopsy on their work.
If it looks decent Ill leave it as is and just soda blast everything before having the ports/combustion chambers and valve faces coated.
Im going to spend lots of time transforming the exterior of the head though since the early gpz/j series heads are just flat out fugly in my book as cast! :laugh:

LarryC wrote: A KZ 900/1000 head does not have issues with the air sticking to the floor. Rig up a test fixture using a simple shop vac and something for a cylinder. Take the valve out of the port. Stick in in the guide upside down to plug the hole. Take a long piece of thread / fine string attached to a rod.

Fire up the shop vac and let the string feed into the port... watch where it goes in the two outside ports and the two inside ports....

A rounded port floor will gather the fuel into the middle of the floor. Not good for distribution.

Then put the valve in the correct way with a light spring and do the same test...

Everybody likes to lay the short side way back...... It's not the way to go...I'm not saying why..

I'm gonna see what your talking about, (hey the good part of having your head off)

YOU CAN PUT STRING DOWN THE PORTS !!

THE DANCES OF STRINGS TELLS US THESE THINGS
LAY THE SHORT SIDE BACK
YOU DONT KNOW SMACK
ROUND THE FLOOR ITS NOT GONNA SCORE.

Any chance on wether stock valves would allow a small kz head to

REACH 95CFM :ohmy:

nads.com wrote:

LarryC wrote: A KZ 900/1000 head does not have issues with the air sticking to the floor. Rig up a test fixture using a simple shop vac and something for a cylinder. Take the valve out of the port. Stick in in the guide upside down to plug the hole. Take a long piece of thread / fine string attached to a rod.

Fire up the shop vac and let the string feed into the port... watch where it goes in the two outside ports and the two inside ports....

A rounded port floor will gather the fuel into the middle of the floor. Not good for distribution.

Then put the valve in the correct way with a light spring and do the same test...

Everybody likes to lay the short side way back...... It's not the way to go...I'm not saying why..

I'm gonna see what your talking about, (hey the good part of having your head off)

YOU CAN PUT STRING DOWN THE PORTS !!

THE DANCES OF STRINGS TELLS US THESE THINGS
LAY THE SHORT SIDE BACK
YOU DONT KNOW SMACK
ROUND THE FLOOR ITS NOT GONNA SCORE.

Any chance on wether stock valves would allow a small kz head to

REACH 95CFM :ohmy:

The j/gpz valves would help but you need the porting to work with them

nads.com wrote: Could I epoxy blades into the port to guide the air to the center of the hole?

Grasshopper.... Snatch this pebble from my hand.

nads.com wrote:

LarryC wrote: A KZ 900/1000 head does not have issues with the air sticking to the floor. Rig up a test fixture using a simple shop vac and something for a cylinder. Take the valve out of the port. Stick in in the guide upside down to plug the hole. Take a long piece of thread / fine string attached to a rod.

Fire up the shop vac and let the string feed into the port... watch where it goes in the two outside ports and the two inside ports....

A rounded port floor will gather the fuel into the middle of the floor. Not good for distribution.

Then put the valve in the correct way with a light spring and do the same test...

Everybody likes to lay the short side way back...... It's not the way to go...I'm not saying why..

I'm gonna see what your talking about, (hey the good part of having your head off)

YOU CAN PUT STRING DOWN THE PORTS !!

THE DANCES OF STRINGS TELLS US THESE THINGS
LAY THE SHORT SIDE BACK
YOU DONT KNOW SMACK
ROUND THE FLOOR ITS NOT GONNA SCORE.

Any chance on wether stock valves would allow a small kz head to

REACH 95CFM :ohmy:

95cfm at what test pressure numb nuts?

Make it like this..







So tell me girls....this engine is making 2.4 HP/Cu.In and needs to make 2.8... what's wrong?

LarryC wrote:

Attachment 2013-01-1912.13.53.jpg not found

Attachment 2013-01-1912.13.53.jpg not found

nads.com wrote:

LarryC wrote: A KZ 900/1000 head does not have issues with the air sticking to the floor. Rig up a test fixture using a simple shop vac and something for a cylinder. Take the valve out of the port. Stick in in the guide upside down to plug the hole. Take a long piece of thread / fine string attached to a rod.

Fire up the shop vac and let the string feed into the port... watch where it goes in the two outside ports and the two inside ports....

A rounded port floor will gather the fuel into the middle of the floor. Not good for distribution.

Then put the valve in the correct way with a light spring and do the same test...

Everybody likes to lay the short side way back...... It's not the way to go...I'm not saying why..

I'm gonna see what your talking about, (hey the good part of having your head off)

YOU CAN PUT STRING DOWN THE PORTS !!

THE DANCES OF STRINGS TELLS US THESE THINGS
LAY THE SHORT SIDE BACK
YOU DONT KNOW SMACK
ROUND THE FLOOR ITS NOT GONNA SCORE.

Any chance on wether stock valves would allow a small kz head to

REACH 95CFM :ohmy:

95cfm at what test pressure numb nuts?

Make it like this..

Attachment 2013-01-1912.11.58.jpg not found

Attachment 2013-01-1912.17.18.jpg not found

Attachment 2013-01-1912.12.44.jpg not found

So tell me girls....this engine is making 2.4 HP/Cu.In and needs to make 2.8... what's wrong?

I see and soon i see :ohmy: It looks like my head
And I see I was right about how much ROOM you need at PLACES

Ok, so now we know how to cut a vavle seat for a larger valve,
blend the bowl, turn the port, straighten the guide and form it,
flatten the floor, increase volume all through the head,

and along comes some deacent pics, you doing allright son, not afraid
to open things up in the bend and make room I see, Hope your not killing
velocity :woohoo:

peaking at 9800 RPM
182 cu.in.

how fast should it be?

how much air should it flow for 500HP?

how big should the intake throat be for a 2.250" valve ?

leon

LarryC wrote: peaking at 9800 RPM
182 cu.in.

how fast should it be?

how much air should it flow for 500HP?

how big should the intake throat be for a 2.250" valve ?

:ohmy: wow he freaked out. At windy 95cfm and 34mm carb 180psi, .407 lift ,

would the head flowenoughairwithstockvalves, to make 120whp.

What difference would 12.1 make for hp?

I'm trying to get this pumped up at 1015cc, I don't care about low end,

I twist the throttle at 9500rpm in curves and its got alot of scoot,
That's with the timing retarded a little too far, bump it up and you can
shift the power band up and down, all the way to where at around 7800 it
will lay down some torque, or set the timing to have it start at 8 or a little more,
or whatever, however this is only one place where the from start to finish it's the
fastest, set it there :woohoo:

there is an old old man in my town who used to machine everything, made powerglide
trannys couple the flywheel on the race cars for everyone,
The bowls in your pics remind me of the way he did the bowls on some bowtie heads
for a combine demolition derby motor :lol: nice work there almost as good as
my best


:huh: :dry: what are you staring at man?
Every time I upped mm in carbs, I got a bigger boost, the last jump was 3mm and it
was huge, if I put 34's on there, I have no reason to believe it's not going to be
an absolute beast up top and I'm gonna fly. LIke pin the tail on the r6 fast

WILL THE DIABOLICAL PLAN EVOLVE INTO SOMETHING HERE? i MUST ASK MYSELF.
THESE ARE THE VOYAGES OF NADS DOT COM.

STRONGER
HARDER
FASTER
FOREVER UNTIL YOU COLIDE WITH YOUR SOUL MATE AND HAVE TO REBUILD THEM BOTH

Ok, I'm trying to make this work and so far I've got this whimpy 1015cc motor,
with what have ya port work and boat anchor carbs, and next thing you know I'm running
with a 20008 r6 thats shifted fast at 14.000, out to say 115 and then deccelllll whooa
you gotta stop some time right? Right so don't say you havn't before either,
and it's the third bike guys one cbr one zx one r6 in great shape.

Am I cheating and use the wind tow from the other bike? well noo,
When you race those bikes nothings going to get you up there, and keep them from walkiing away,
like pods and header, and a cam, and pistons, thats all junk toward keeping up with the joneses.
Nothing but pure power that comes on hard and pulls clean and strong over a long enough range
is going to keep you THERE where the action is NEXT to the bike IN the race, the NOW.

I built a cofortable home in the now

I am now comfortable

an r6 rolls up

my heart rate actually slows

Ive been here before

and there mean too

and theyll spit at ya

and take off screaming

and they DONT WAIT

but i cant hear them

my bike is roaring over the snotty whine

and i just barely got a grip

im hanging from a thread so fragile

the winds picks up its over

it didnt walk away the race is almost over

motor refused to quit pulling




FOLKS I AM NOT OUT OF TUNE

NOT SAYING IT COULDN'T BE DONE BETTER

BUT BY THE TIME IM DONE

THE FUTURE RACING CARREER WILL PROBLY REQUIRES 12.1 MIN. RUN OUT OF POWERR

FOR THESE NEW BIKES THESE DAYS, NOT ME, NOT YET.
BIG BROTHER APE NEED A TAXI TO PISTONVILLE NOW!

Like getting bugspray for the insects, about all it amounts to at that point.

Like a bazooka coming in the mail, pistons from ape again. it's top secret mode when the ups truck
squeals to a halt in your drive, the streets are quiet, not another bike around,
in the distance your ears pick up the sound of someone ripping on a rocket,

And it's on, arm every finger and toe with a wrench and spaz out :evil:

i will not be denied until i can't keep up and theres room yet so....

more fun to be had with a kz1015 in 2013. with gs wheels that are so damn cool.

Nads....when you get that thing done....bring it around and I'll bet you $100 you can't even keep up with my ZRX11 :kiss:

How will you know if you have 95CFM or 75CFM...tape measure? yardstick? dipstick? lipstick?