Cam Timing Problem!!!!

1980classic wrote: yes valve clearances checked all set to .12mm

where did you get that number 0.12mm .....my 1980 KZ 1000 A4 manual wants clearance at 0.05mm to 0.10mm with 0.06mm the goal.....your double than mine right now?

have the factory service manual and supplement for the 1980 Kz1000G Z1 classic, spec say .05mm to .15mm

1980classic wrote: have the factory service manual and supplement for the 1980 Kz1000G Z1 classic, spec say .05mm to .15mm

ok

Double checked and I was looking at the supplement for the 1979 kz1000A3. The 1980 is .05mm-.10mm....this could be my problem

when you have the tdc that want and your sprocket marks are flush with the head and your pins are counted....then look and see if the cams end notches are flush too...are the lobes on the exhaust and intake cams a mirror image and level or are the advanced a bit from level.....hard to explain for me if they look like they are not level to each other ....you are one tooth off imo...the bike will not start very easy if my memory is correct.....

im only going on memory and others here have WAY more experience

1980classic wrote: Double checked and I was looking at the supplement for the 1979 kz1000A3. The 1980 is .05mm-.10mm....this could be my problem

The bike will run just fine with .12mm clearance.

1980classic wrote: Double checked and I was looking at the supplement for the 1979 kz1000A3. The 1980 is .05mm-.10mm....this could be my problem

you need to be at 0.06 mm

I agree with Roadflyer.....it should run fine....might have a tic or top end noise but this is not the overall problem.....just a small correction at best.

1980classic wrote: Double checked and I was looking at the supplement for the 1979 kz1000A3. The 1980 is .05mm-.10mm....this could be my problem

Nope...that's not it.

1980classic wrote: What marks on the lobes? I see some lines on the very ends of the cams.

If the crank is at TDC for 1&4, the cam timing looks correct. If you don't have any tight valve lash situation, look for ignition timing problem or lean condition in DFI.

Does the spitting back through the throttle bodies go away or get worse as RPM rises?

Injectors could need a good cleaning. Do you have the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator?

Only changes to the bike were as follows:
Injectors cleaned by witchhunter 11/29
Installed pogue adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Installed dyna 3ohm coils and wires
Head work done by fairfax machine shop
shimmed to approx .12mm on all valves
Spitting back occurs at low rpm at rpm rise it goes away. I moved the intake back 1 tooth and seems to run better but not smooth like it was.

1980classic wrote: Only changes to the bike were as follows:
Injectors cleaned by witchhunter 11/29
Installed pogue adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Installed dyna 3ohm coils and wires
Head work done by fairfax machine shop
shimmed to approx .12mm on all valves
Spitting back occurs at low rpm at rpm rise it goes away. I moved the intake back 1 tooth and seems to run better but not smooth like it was.

I personally thought the cam timing looked good based on lobe position.

Adjust the TPS sensor on the left side of the EFI throttle bodies. Those are a bit odd because it's the old analogue system. As I recall they have lights as indicators. Never had to screw with those because they were not common. However lots of DFI systems benefited from TPS adjustment. They were easy and worked better without the Kaw meter. On those we drilled out the cover plugs. Set idle about 1200 with main idle knob, then adjust TPS for highest idle. Lock the screws down and rest idle to 1100RPM....

I suspect fuel issue at idle based on the description of problem goes away as RPM rises. You could also try turning the reg adj bolt 1 flat and see if it helps.

What fuel pressure are you running with the adjustable FPR? Stock is 36psi I believe. Check that return line from the FPR is not blocked/kinked and any check valve at the tank is opening properly as any of these can jack the fuel pressure through the roof leading to plug fouling.

The throttle bodies need to be balanced, the same as a set of carbs, this is also a common cause of rough running at low rpm.

Just for info, Kawasaki abandoned mounting the injectors in the head on subsequent models (1982>) as it lead to injector overheating and failure. Even though they were cleaned last year, it might be worth checking them again for flow and spray pattern.