Valve adjustments

Carb sync will often dramatically reduce valve train noise.

Good Fortune!

+1 on what Baldy110 and Patton said. Do go ahead and do a cam chain tension adjustment. Not sure if yours has an automatic adjuster. So in any case, you have to make sure the adjuster is functioning properly. Very important to make sure you have good tension on the chain, otherwise its going to slap around and cause that noise you may be hearing. But more importantly, parts will start wearing prematurely. In my case, I was getting metal flakes when changing the oil. Not much but eventually the front cam guide broke. Requires the head coming off to fix. I'm sure it was a loose chain that did it because I saw some metal from the head in that area taken off by the chain. After you get that sorted, go ahead and re-shim the valves that are out of spec. Hopefully, you should get a nice smooth running engine again.

So the valves that read like .005 are the ones that probably need bigger shims? Also, automatic adjusters have that wheel on the side with a spring right? Or was that just for my suzuki? The ticking has to be the valves. It does it right in sync with the motor running. I do think my carbs are out of sync though. Let me know if i got this right..

Cylinder 1 Valve lash
INTAKE- .003 (no .004 gauge on hand)
EXHAUST- .0025 (.003 doesnt fit)

Cylinder 2 Valve lash
INTAKE- .002 (.0025 doesn't fit)
EXHAUST- .005 (.006 doesn't fit)

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larger shim

Cylinder 3 Valve lash
INTAKE- .0025 (.003 doesn't fit)
EXHAUST- .005 (.006 doesn't fit)

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larger shim

Cylinder 4 Valve lash
INTAKE- .005 (.006 doesnt fit)

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larger shim
EXHAUST- Not even my smallest gauge would fit. NEED SMALLER SHIM----smaller shim

I added "Larger shim" On the ones that are loose, and "Smaller shim" for the exhaust on cylinder 4.

Ill post a video in a few showing how tight the cam chain is and you guys can let me know if it needs to be tighter.

Thanks so much for the help guys,
KT

Kitten Tooth wrote: So the valves that read like .005 are the ones that probably need bigger shims?

.005" is OK in my book (750 twin), especially for an exhaust valve. I run all mine .003" to .005" range.

Kitten Tooth wrote:

Yes, clean the tensioner and lube the plungers.

Don't bolt the valve cover on with the size plunger in place. The side plunger, spring, washer can cap go on after the valve cover is tightened down.

Will that tighten the chain up again? Is it supposed to pop loose like that? I figured the piston inside the chain tensioner was fixed in one spot when you tighten it down.

There are 2 plungers Tim. The main plunger pushes on the rubbing shoe. The size plunger pushes on the main plunger. The springs can get weak. The plungers can bind from oil residue build up.

Look at the service manual. You'll sort it out pretty quickly.

Ahh alrighty. Thanks man.

You're welcome Tim. Follow the book. With your abilities, everything you need is in the book. You have good problem solving skills. It's clear sailing ahead