So.....I'm thinking of changing the rings.

I have looked at the spark - there IS spark there - but I haven't really gauged the strength of the spark.

PRM068 wrote:

bountyhunter wrote: You can isolate coil problem by switching coils and see if problem switches with it.

Been looking in my manual....just has removal and instal of the coils - nothing about testing. I have found some stuff on the forum regarding testing, but is it just as simple as switching them ? They're no "side specific "?

You can just swap the coils as a test.

Also, you should be able to run the tests described in the manual. If your manual doesn't show the test you may want to toss it and buy a Kawasaki Service Manual. Here's a link the a Kawasaki manual for the KZ650. Notice the coil test beginning on page 201. Your coils may be different, but your manual should describe the test for them. Ed

www.scribd.com/doc/48655900/Kawasaki-KZ-...B1-77-Service-Manual

Thanks 650ED. Mine is a genuine Kawasaki Workshop manaual.

Just had a real good look through it and found the testing proceedures suing a "Kawasaki Electrotester"....whatever that is.

Just got the manual recently, and foolishly thought that looking in the index at the back would tell me where this stuff was listed - NOT.

Peter

PRM068 wrote: I have looked at the spark - there IS spark there - but I haven't really gauged the strength of the spark.

It's important to gauge strength of the spark.

Weaker than fat blue spark on #2/3 could account for sooty #2/3 plugs.

Sooty #2/3 plugs despite fat blue spark likely results from an issue other than ignition.

Good Fortune!

PRM068 wrote: Also, if I do need a new one (used), when I'm checking through Ebay, does it need to be for a 1000 or will other engine models suit ?

Don't buy a used one, it will just fail soon. Been there, done that.

I don't know what coil resistance yours takes but Z1 probably has a coil that fits.

G'day again guys,

well, had a few minutes to spare today, so thought I'd do a compression check. I was planning on getting new plugs today anyway, mainly because I have to borrow an Ohm meter to do the checks on the coils, and I also don't have access to the "Kawasaki Electrometer" specified in the manual.

Firstly, plugs 1 and 4 are pretty good, 3 not too bad....2......could be a lot better.

Compression check :
1 - 100 psi
2 - 140 psi
3 - 125 psi
4 - 120 psi

Did about 3 checks on each. I'm wondering.....if No.2 is the problem cylinder, could it's compression be higher as a result of bad rings and the oil giving it a little more compression ?

Also, made sure the siring to the coils was at least in decent shape. Someone had butchered the coil for 2 & 3 by soldering (rather poorley) the 2 red wires going to it. Which is my next question ....about to check the manual, but is there meant to be 2 red wires or just 1 ?


Peter

If a Dyna-S ignition has been installed, it requires switched voltage , which is often via a red wire spliced into the wire that feeds switched voltage to the ignition coils.

Good Fortune!

Is this a Dyna S Ignition ???

That's the stock Kawasaki electronic ignition. Not a Dyna-S.



Good Fortune!

If the red wire is carrying switched voltage, perhaps the splice is for the purpose of furnishing a separate red wire to each ignition coil.





Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton.

I have a lot to learn about bikes.

In any case, i just put in 4 brand new plugs.....bike is running good again, but I've no doubt the problems will arise again and the plugs will need to be replaced. Never mind. I think I'll just keep riding it.

I am going to trace where that "spliced" red wire is going and why it's there. It terminates at some relay under the seat which doesn't look standard (or is it?). The red wire from the relay is the one which goes to the right side coil.

Can I just ask....what do you think of those compression readings ?

Am uncertain, and have never done a coil mod, but guessing the mystery fixture might be the relay for a coil mod.

Regarding the compression test figures, if not already done, would assure all valve clearances are within specs, and then re-test. Next, would put a hundred miles or so on the bike, and again re-test.

Good Fortune!