So.....I'm thinking of changing the rings.

G'day guys,

recently I've thought about redoing the top end of my motor (1982 KZ1000 LTD).

I've never done this before. Sure, I've pulled engines out, replaced boxes etc (in old Valiants mind you), but never tinkered with the actual "guts" of a motor.

I have my factory Kawasaki manual - I've read all the stuff about ripping it down and replacing rings etc.

I was hoping someone could explain in simple terms, what is the process of getting new rings and possibly valves etc ? Like, when you take the old rings off, do you simply buy the same ones, are valves simply thrown out and new ones put in of the same type ?
I always here of "oversized this and that".......all i want to do is freshen up my motor, and I hope I'm not getting in over my head. Should I be checking Ebay for inlet and exhaust valves that suit my KZ......I realise I may have to get the head checked, but what happens to valve size if they have to clean it up ?

Hope I'm not over simplifying things....just thought I'd ask in case there's some easy answers to help me undrestand what to do. At the moment my bike is running great BUT......I'm always cleaning up plug 2 and the pistons look a little "wet" on top. The bike uses a little oil but isn't blowing heaps of smoke. I just feel it may be a little tired and could use a freshen up. In saying that - I could just as easy leave it alone and ride it till something goes awry.

Thanks,

Peter

You need some special tools to measure bore wear to see what's going on. If the motor has less than 40k miles and not abused, I doubt it needs rings. I am no expert on the 1000 but I believe the rings are rare and pricey when you find them. Avoid unless absolutely necessary. Compression test (or leakdown) will tell you if you need rings.

Valves probably don't need replacing but the head should be done and valve seals replaced. They will lap the valves and seats and should be good to go. If you are oiling plugs, it's typically the valve seals.

If it runs OK, doesn't use a lot of oil and compression is in spec, might want to drive it.

When is it smoking?

That a bit of a tough job is you've never been into a motor before.
Cam timing alone if not correct can bend vales. Im not saying dont do it, but carefully check each step, holler if you have questions. Im sure people here will be glad to help.
As said above, you have to measure everything properly to see if the cylinder indeed needs bored or if your in limits. Also have to do a marking test with marker to see where new vlaves sit ijn the seat, bacause seats wear and move wear up or down the valve face. Book will also cover some of that.

Thanks for the reply guys,

I was kind of at the stage where I thought it's about time I pulled a motor down. Been into cars my whole life and recently bikes.

This is the thing - it doesn't seem to blow smoke. The plugs foul a little and I know i have oil leaking from those rubber seals on the side of the valve cover - but not heaps of oil - does pool a little though. I suppose for a bike that's heaps.

When the plugs are new, the thing runs perfect and smooth, but after a while (especially after higher speeds of 65 - 70 mph), you occasionally get this vibration which isn'y mechanical.....it's like something "missing". Then of course I check the plugs and number 2 is alwys prett black....No.3 also but not as bad.

When i shine a torrh down the cylinders thay appear "wet" on top of the piston - almost oily, but not sure it's oil. Wouldn't be fuel would it ?

Sorry about the vague analysis......just woke up fellas.

Peter

Are you sure your spark plugs are the correct heat range? Ed

after a while (especially after higher speeds of 65 - 70 mph), you occasionally get this vibration which isn'y mechanical.....it's like something "missing". Then of course I check the plugs and number 2 is alwys prett black....No.3 also but not as bad.

If those are original coils, they could be failing under heat.

Plugs 2-3 are in series on the same coil. Both blacking up points at a coil problem.

Bounty Hunter....thanks. I reckon you're onto something. It really does feel like a "running" problem.

I'll check the manual and get back to you all. Bike still runs / performs well, but there's definitely something amiss. I almost thought I had an exhaust leak today, but can't find any leaks.

Peter

tst

You can isolate coil problem by switching coils and see if problem switches with it.

bountyhunter wrote: You can isolate coil problem by switching coils and see if problem switches with it.

Been looking in my manual....just has removal and instal of the coils - nothing about testing. I have found some stuff on the forum regarding testing, but is it just as simple as switching them ? They're no "side specific "?

Also, if I do need a new one (used), when I'm checking through Ebay, does it need to be for a 1000 or will other engine models suit ?

Thanks again (very much) for getting back to me. A bit new to bikes and need all the help I can trying to understand them.

Peter

PRM068 wrote: ...my manual....just has removal and instal of the coils - nothing about testing....

Could remove plugs to see fat blue sparks, which indicates the coil is okay.

Weak orange sparks could result from several other things besides a deficient coil.

Good Fortune!