KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
- PaulyWally
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KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 12:02 - 02 Sep 2012 12:03
Here is where I am at:
That large bolt is my makeshift flywheel puller (it's the bike's rear axle). I am under the impression that I am currently at a point in disassembly, that I need to use the flywheel puller.
So I have read 2 different schools of thought on this step:
1) Turn the flywheel puller until it pops out.
2) Hammer on the end of the flywheel puller until it pops out.
I'm not comfortable hammering on the end of the flywheel puller. I also don't have the special "Dynamo Rotor Holder" tool. I tried a strap wrench, and I busted it (although, it was successful in getting the rotor bolt off first).
So... any thoughts on how to get this bad boy off?
Thanks in advance!
Attachment 2012-09-0209.27.02b.jpg not found
That large bolt is my makeshift flywheel puller (it's the bike's rear axle). I am under the impression that I am currently at a point in disassembly, that I need to use the flywheel puller.
So I have read 2 different schools of thought on this step:
1) Turn the flywheel puller until it pops out.
2) Hammer on the end of the flywheel puller until it pops out.
I'm not comfortable hammering on the end of the flywheel puller. I also don't have the special "Dynamo Rotor Holder" tool. I tried a strap wrench, and I busted it (although, it was successful in getting the rotor bolt off first).
So... any thoughts on how to get this bad boy off?
Thanks in advance!
1976 KZ750 Twin
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Last edit: 02 Sep 2012 12:03 by PaulyWally.
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- 650ed
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 12:47
I may be all wrong, but I thought you are supposed to put a ball bearing in the hole before the flywheel puller. Then as the puller is tightened it pushes against the the ball bearing and pulls the flywheel off. I've never done it, but hopefully someone who has will chime in. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- daveo
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 14:13
The ball bearing method works great, as long as there is enough space for it and engaging a few threads of the bolt.
I put an Electrex rotor on my engine recently, and couldn't use a ball bearing because the center mounting shaft is shorter than OEM, and doesn't provide the space for one. Had to cut some of the thread-end off the rotor bolt on account of the difference in length, as well.
Electrex RO3. Supposedly machined to exact fit tolerances...not. I'm still waiting to hear back from their technical department regarding my installation issue(s).
I put an Electrex rotor on my engine recently, and couldn't use a ball bearing because the center mounting shaft is shorter than OEM, and doesn't provide the space for one. Had to cut some of the thread-end off the rotor bolt on account of the difference in length, as well.
Electrex RO3. Supposedly machined to exact fit tolerances...not. I'm still waiting to hear back from their technical department regarding my installation issue(s).
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- PaulyWally
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 15:02650ed wrote: I may be all wrong, but I thought you are supposed to put a ball bearing in the hole before the flywheel puller. Then as the puller is tightened it pushes against the the ball bearing and pulls the flywheel off. I've never done it, but hopefully someone who has will chime in. Ed
I'm gathering that I need some type of a "spacer" underneath my "rotor puller"?
I vaguely recall an internet post from someone saying they put a 1/2" socket in there. I'm guessing that's what they were referring to?
1976 KZ750 Twin
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- Motor Head
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 15:13
The ball Bearing allows for less friction between the end of the Bolt (Puller) and the end of the shaft. So less torque is applied for the same pressure. Hopefully saving having to tighten it as tight. Make sure that there is plenty of thread still, where the bolt goes in, whichever method used. Some Anti-Seize is also a good Idea. Once the pressure id there, one good smack with a sizable hammer will take it off.
Does your rear axle have the Nut, or the round end with the hole through it? If the nut, use an Impact wrench. If the round, get a different bolt/ puller as it will be extremely hard to get it tight enough.
Does your rear axle have the Nut, or the round end with the hole through it? If the nut, use an Impact wrench. If the round, get a different bolt/ puller as it will be extremely hard to get it tight enough.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- ironslave
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 20:08
A proper flywheel puller screws on to the flywheel and then has a bolt running through the center. you would screw the bolt in to break the flywheel loose. the ball bearing idea it an excellent one though.
1981 KZ750 LTD
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- bountyhunter
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 20:16 - 02 Sep 2012 20:18Mine had a hole on the 79 750 twin. I put a screwdriver through and tapped on it to break the flywheel loose. That sucker was REALLY tight.Motor Head wrote: The ball Bearing allows for less friction between the end of the Bolt (Puller) and the end of the shaft. So less torque is applied for the same pressure. Hopefully saving having to tighten it as tight. Make sure that there is plenty of thread still, where the bolt goes in, whichever method used. Some Anti-Seize is also a good Idea. Once the pressure id there, one good smack with a sizable hammer will take it off.
Does your rear axle have the Nut, or the round end with the hole through it? If the nut, use an Impact wrench. If the round, get a different bolt/ puller as it will be extremely hard to get it tight enough.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
Last edit: 02 Sep 2012 20:18 by bountyhunter.
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- tinlizzie37
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
02 Sep 2012 21:52
I think if anything between the puller and shaft, might screw up the threads on the shaft. Double nut the one end and use an impact gun or whack it with a hammer. Bob
Bob KZ 650 E1, En 450
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- Patton
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- Rainman
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
04 Sep 2012 14:27 - 04 Sep 2012 14:31This is about all the rotation it took mine. Notice the rotor anti-rotation device. 1/4" diameter ball bearing used.
Good luck,
Jim
Edit: pictures are out of order, second is first. Rotation is clockwise.
80 KZ750 H1 - the Kaw calf
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79 KZ750 Twin - Miss Nov 2008 KZR calander
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Last edit: 04 Sep 2012 14:31 by Rainman.
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- PaulyWally
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
04 Sep 2012 15:51 - 04 Sep 2012 16:05Wow! Talk about your epic threads!
After reading that (and other thoughts on this) here's what I've decided to try first:
I don't have any spare ball bearings or a "good way" to hold the dynamo/rotor in place. So, I ordered a flywheel puller from Z1 Enterprises and will hit that with a [strike]torque[/strike] impact wrench once it gets here. With any luck, I won't need any more than that.
1976 KZ750 Twin
Last edit: 04 Sep 2012 16:05 by PaulyWally.
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- P21
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Re: KZ750(B1) Starter Clutch Repair
04 Sep 2012 15:57
i hope you mean impact gun (air) and not torque wrench
on a job like that you need air tools son i think that is a taper fit on end of crankshaft
on a job like that you need air tools son i think that is a taper fit on end of crankshaft
Kawasaki KZ 1000 Police (2002) P21
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