KZ1000 Cam chain tensioner Fix??

I just read that the MKII has 124 links. Mine has a 122 links, like it is suppose to. The aftermarket chain is heavier and stronger. But is wasn't a D.I.D. it was a TSUBAKI that I installed, my mistake . I just checked the box.

I think I have other issues here. I'm going to pull the valve cover off and look for oil. There is too much top end rattle still. I tripple checked the valve clearances and it can't be that. Maybe low oil pressure to head. Oil light goes off after bike is running, almost imediatley. Like I said I never heard this bike run and it hasn't run in at least 5 years.

Wow, Bike looks great, hope you get it to run as good as it looks.
Pete

vintagebiker wrote: I think I have other issues here. I'm going to pull the valve cover off and look for oil. There is too much top end rattle still. I tripple checked the valve clearances and it can't be that. Maybe low oil pressure to head. Oil light goes off after bike is running, almost imediatley. Like I said I never heard this bike run and it hasn't run in at least 5 years.

Check the top idler sprocket bearing. See if you can wiggle the sprocket up/down. They're common fail items on old KZ motors.

pete greek1 wrote: Wow, Bike looks great, hope you get it to run as good as it looks.
Pete

Yup, what he said.

Sounds like you have something out of kilter with the tensioners, or like Larry said the top roller bearing is failing on you. Hope you get that ironed out before something major happens.

I can't believe i had the cam timing off. And the bike still ran. thank god I didn't bend a valve.
I think the valves were just kissing the pistons. No marks on them or the valves. I ran the bike for about 5 minutes like that. thats what all the rattling was.
Can't wait to fire her up tomorrow now.

My Clymer Book M359-3 1973-1981 Z&KZ 900-1000cc says word for word



1973-1978 Install the cam chain tensioner assembly on the cylinder block. Torque the mounting bolts to 14.5 ft. lb.(1.0 mkg). Loosen the locknut and the bolt on the left side of the camshaft chain tensioner body, located on rear of cylinder block.

NOTE: A spring inside the tensioner will take up the slack in the camshaft chain.


It never says to retighten the bolt after the slack is takin up. Is this the right way or is there another way I am lost ran it both ways and neither way makes anymore noise then the other.

Before I put the tensioner assembly back on I rolled the engine over while putting one finger in the tensioner hole trying to feel for the slackest or loosest position. The manual tells you to turn it to a certain point on the timing cover. I don't have the manual. Once you find the loosest point put the tensioner back on with the pinch bolt loose. After the tensioner 4 mounting bolts are tightned than you can snug up the pinch bolt than the locking nut.

on my 80 model z1r the automatic adjuster use the "set bolt" to hold it back for installation only.after that it sets down in a notch so that the spring pushes it out and the lock rings and bearings prevent it from backing off.

leon

vintagebiker wrote: I can't believe i had the cam timing off. And the bike still ran. thank god I didn't bend a valve.
I think the valves were just kissing the pistons. No marks on them or the valves. I ran the bike for about 5 minutes like that. thats what all the rattling was.
Can't wait to fire her up tomorrow now.

Glad you found it. So how far off was it? was it intake or exhaust or both?

531blackbanshee wrote: on my 80 model z1r the automatic adjuster use the "set bolt" to hold it back for installation only.after that it sets down in a notch so that the spring pushes it out and the lock rings and bearings prevent it from backing off.

leon

Leon, that isn't a particularly good design, as they will slip. Ask me how I know this. :pinch: I usually pick up an earlier version to replace the '79 or '80 model "automatic" chain adjusters.
YMMV

I had both cams out. I lined up the 2 lines on the sproket parallal with the head as you would on a yamaha and Honda, than I turned the intake cam lob on number 1 cylinder in the oposite direction or approximalety 180 degrees out from the exhaust. Which is normal in any engine. than I counted the 28 links to make sure she was bang on. On my bike there was 3 marks on the intake cam sproket. 2 were little dashes and one said 28. I didn't see the one with 28 on it until this time, but the first time the little dash lined right up and the bike ran. The valves must have been touching a bit and causing most of the rattle. The cylinder head bolts loosened right up. I was getting back presure in #3 cylinder, high crankcase presure, all signs that the cam timing was off.No bent valves though.