KZ1000 Cam chain tensioner Fix??

Anybody ever try this trick? I put a new DID cam chain in my bike and the tensioner just doesn't seem to have enough presure to tighten up the slack. I took it apart and unlike a Yamaha or Honda tensioner it can float back and forth. The Other brands that I have worked on in the past have a one way ribbed shaft so that the tensioner locks as it pushes forward. It can never back up and be loose. Well I just tried this little fix and it seems to work just fine. 1st drill out the back of the tensioner and tap it to 1x6mm thread and put a 6 mm bolt in with a lock nut. Seems to work good. and cheaper than buying an APE one which does the same thing.

The tensioner rod cannot float back and forth if you tighten the screw on the side. That screw pinches the rod against the inside of the tensioner body so it cannot move. To adjust the cam chain tension with that type tensioner you turn the crankshaft to the position shown in the manual, loosen the locknut on the side of the tensioner then loosen the screw on the side. The spring will then push the rod into the engine with the correct amount on tension to take up the cam chain slack. You then tighten the screw and the locknut and you all done.

The modification you made should work fine, but you will need to loosen the pinch screw for the rod to move in. When turning in the screw you added be careful not to apply too much tension as that can cause problems. Ed

thanks, I did loosen the pinch bolt on the side first. It just seemed that the spring was too weak to push that chain in far enough. The after market chain is substantially bigger.
It seems to work OK and it is just snug enough to stop the ratteling.

no the aftermarket chain is not bigger? if its to big you got the wrong chain. if you decide to put an incorrect chain on your bike...thats a problem. even if it was incorrect from the factory...you should pull it and send that chit back....get the correct one. one problem caused another with the tensioner and do they keep comming? come-on-man

Sounds to me like you put and MKII chain for a 16/32 tooth combo in a 15/30 tooth KZ.

my thoughts exactly.

I thought that the tensioner lock bolt was supposed to be loose so that the rod can move except when taking the tensioner off the engine, so that it doesn't come apart.

how the hell is the drag monster bike going dragtostreet. Did you ever give it a name?

Haven't given her a name yet still working on that. She is almost ready waiting on speedo and front brake line. checking insurance as we speak. She runs real strong someone once called her whiteknuckels

dragtostreet wrote: I thought that the tensioner lock bolt was supposed to be loose so that the rod can move except when taking the tensioner off the engine, so that it doesn't come apart.

No. You want the plunger locked into the position that keeps the correct tension on the chain. It's when the bold backs off that the noises start happening.

The chain has the correct 122 links and right pitch. It is heavier and thicker than the stock one. I was going to take a picture of the difference before i put it in because in some of the forums I read about people wondering which aftermarket chain lasted longer or worked better than a stock one.
What is the difference in the MCII chan? I see the sprokets are different. But is the length different?

Done!! Except for left sidecover.Little run in clear coat.