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Running rough
- 5150BOT
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So something is wrong on the left side right. Now what should I check or where should I start tracing from?
1981 KZ1000K1 LTD
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- Patton
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www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...;id=77&Itemid=99
The coil is supposed to receive full switched battery voltage at its primary terminal.
The pick-up module and igniter are supposed to work together toward grounding and ungrounding the coil's other primary terminal.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 5150BOT
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Anyways that left side should not be reading voltage all the time? the signal wire must be grounded? either where its supposed to be or where ever it wrongfully is, going to start at the left igniton coil black primary wire and work back thru the harness I hate to open that harness up but unless something screams or even peeps out at ya then :dry:
Remember this bike had electrical problems from the get
1981 KZ1000K1 LTD
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- Patton
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www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/260-z1000k1
Could first concentrate on identifying any issues with the wires and connectors going into and out of the igniter, and the wires between the pick-up modules and the igniter.
Back to basics for a moment -- when the engine is running, which cylinders are combusting, and which cylinders are not combusting?
If plugs 1-2-3 look okay but #4 looks black and sooty -- has a new plug been tried in #4?
Have plugs been removed and all have visibly observed fat blue sparks when the engine is spun over?
What is compression on #4?
What are valve clearances on #4?
What is fuel level on #4 carb?
Pods or air box? If pods, is #4 pod dirty or over-oiled?
What carbs are fitted?
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 5150BOT
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I didnt have much time to fiddle but so far Ive found the red primary coil wires ohm up with the frame when the kill switch is in the loop that should be a closed loop system from what I can see right, so maybe a bad kill switch? or ignition?
1981 KZ1000K1 LTD
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- Patton
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5150BOT wrote: Im pretty sure we can rule out the basics for this situation,, It isnt always #4 that doesnt fire.
I didnt have much time to fiddle but so far Ive found the red primary coil wires ohm up with the frame when the kill switch is in the loop that should be a closed loop system from what I can see right, so maybe a bad kill switch? or ignition?
With ignition ON, each coil should be receiving (via red or red/yellow wire) full battery voltage at its primary winding terminal, which voltage should match the voltage measured between the battery posts.
Insufficient voltage at the coil may result in incomplete combustion and erratic combustion patterns among the cylinders.
Loss of voltage between the battery and coil may occur at several locations.
The locations shown here are among the likely suspects:
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 5150BOT
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I havent done much crazy work schedule, I stripped it down got the harness out into open and opened it up there was a great deal of strange yellowish moisture and crusted stuff inside the factory shrink tube and tape I dont think this is from anything recent looks like years of what ever and heat also I found at the kill switch the red wire only had a couple of strands that were soldered on.
With it all opened up and alot of stuff disconnected :blink: both coil primarys now read 0 to a ground as they should so somewhere something got undone.. :S Im going to rig everything back together checking at steps to see where if any the primarys gets grounded again.. I should prolly check/set the valves at this point since I got it tore down this far.
I dont have a gasket to replace nor do I have a procedure to do it any advice or instructions you could shout out? also any ideas on finding a harness anyone here got one or know of one? I would appreciate it.
I have become slightly discouraged while seeing all these bikes riding around and getting nowhere on this one as I cruze craigslist I see a bunch of big yammis & suzies cheap but very few if any kaws under $1500 I really want to keep this bike and keep it original I value original highly but I could be riding something else right now I may not be as proud but still riding :lol: My daughters 1976 nvt easyrider just dont fill the cup :lol: :laugh:
I posted this also to let you know I havent rode off into the sunset and gone forever as I seen many people do..
Thanks Guys
Cheers
1981 KZ1000K1 LTD
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- 5150BOT
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I dont have a gasket to replace nor do I have a procedure to do it any advice or instructions you could shout out? also any ideas on finding a harness anyone here got one or know of one? I would appreciate it
Ok wasted a day waiting for a reply..... I can only guess no one knows how to set/check the valves or its far to complicated to explain or could care or less....funny tho I found bits and piecies here but nothing satifies me I will go get signed up at kawasaki.org forum and see if anyone there knows Thanks and sorry to trouble you guys Cheers
1981 KZ1000K1 LTD
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- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- osage
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Keep trying to run down a FSM. I started with downloaded copies for my bikes but bought used hard copies for better pics.
I can't help with the checking valve clearances as I have not done my small four yet.
1976 KZ750B1
1982 KZ750H3
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- 5150BOT
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Old Man Rock wrote "WTF... :blink: :lol: :lol: :lol: Bye-Bye then..."
Point proved Gee Thnx
1981 KZ1000K1 LTD
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- Old Man Rock
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Free Manuals:
1981-83 KZ1000/KZ1100
Z1, KZ900, 78-80KZ1000
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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