Replaced Clutch Plates: No Tension on Clutch Lever

For a free down-loadable service manual, courtesy of loudhvx:

Click here > home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Mnls/Mnls.html

After downloading the manual, should be able to locate and study the section about assembly and dis-assembly of the clutch basket. Look in the Index at the end of the manual to learn the particular page number where the clutch info is shown.

Good Fortune!

Patton,

You said: "The ball bearing goes into the push rod tunnel just before inserting the pushrod. All done on the left hand (gear shift) side of the bike."

and

"After pulling out the push rod, the ball bearing comes out the same hole. But the pusher doesn't come out the hole where the push rod and the ball bearing came out."

Problem is, the 3/8" ball bearing does not fit in the same hole that the push rod goes into on the left side of the bike. It is too big. Actually, when I first tried to re-assemble everything, I put the ball in behind the pressure plate lifter and everything went together nicely on the right side of the bike (with the push rod out of the bike). But then when I went to put the push rod back in from the left side of the bike, it stuck out too far and the casing and assembly wouldn't go back on correctly. You could actually see where there was an extra 1/2 inch of space on the push rod coming out of the hole that was clean and hadn't previously been exposed to the dirt and grime that the normal part of the push rod that sticks out on the left side is subject to.

However, when I bought the 3/8" ball bearing, it did seem a little big, so I got the next smallest size (5/16") and that DOES fit in the hole that the push rod goes into on the left side of the bike. I actually tried this, but the only problem is that, once inserted into the hole, the ball falls into a small channel or crevice, and the push rod can't push it further into the hole. (I actually had a pretty big "Oh crap!" moment until I was able to push the ball out from the other side by pushing the push rod through in the other direction.)

Either way, the part is described as a 3/8 steel ball. I assumed that meant 3/8". However, it seems that is too big(?).

Thanks again for your images, they help me to better understand what is going on in there.

Did you have any thoughts on the adjuster at the lever and the mid-cable adjuster for when I finally get this ball bearing thing working?

Took a look at that online manual and it helped shed some light on things the Clymer manual leaves out.

First, in the attached file "Clutch diagram", you can see that the steel ball in question does get put in right behind the pressure plate lift.






Also, the attached file "Steel ball photo" confirms that the 3/8" ball is the correct size. This also confirms that I am installing it on the correct side of the bike.

All your mid cable adjuster and lever adjuster do is to lengthen or shorted the cable to get the correct free play at the lever. So if you lost the ball bearing the first time it would be difficult if not impossible to adjust these for free play as a piece is missing in the string. You don't need to do anything to these adjusters other than adjust them after getting the problem figured out. I wish people would not advise adjusting all the adjustments at the engine until the problem is fixed. Fix first, adjust second. Can you push in on the pressure plate lifter and at the same time pull in your clutch lever and feel the lifter move with your lever? If not no way in heck the clutch has any hope of feeling the lift. If you can't feel it then the release mech is somehow hooked up wrong, or the previous adjustments to it have somehow got too far out.

what RonkKZ650 says.. first fix the ball bearing thing.. the cable adjuster in the middle and at the lever are for final adjustments.. (hardening/loosening the lever-pulling)

:silly:

Yeah, I understand that the adjustments are minor issues, but I figured I would at least address them.

My main problem is, however, the thing with the ball bearing... I don't know why everything doesn't fit. It's like there's not enough room when I add it. Kind of looking for theories as to why that might be.

Maybe you have 2 ball bearings in there when you try to reassemble it. Take off the spring plate, the cover on the left side of the bike, remove the ball, the pusher and the rod. Can you see daylight through the hole? If not use a small diameter rod or dowel to clear the hole from the left side. A gun cleaning rod will work. Then reassemble the clutch. Then do the cable adjustments as per the FSM.

raulfd4 wrote: Took a look at that online manual and it helped shed some light on things the Clymer manual leaves out...in the attached file "Clutch diagram"...the steel ball...does get put in right behind the pressure plate lift.

Attachment Clutchdiagram.JPG not found

...3/8" ball is the correct size...also confirms that I am installing it on the correct side of the bike.

Attachment Steelballphoto.JPG not found

Thanks for posting the image from the FSM which shows different steel ball fitment in KZ400/450 (as compared to large KZ fours).

What was incorrect about the assembly as shown in the video?

Good Fortune!

Perhaps the screw in the adjuster mechanism is prematurely contacting the push rod.

Am thinking that the main part of the adjuster mechanism is supposed to be attached to the inner side of the sprocket cover, and should be in its fully retracted position when the handlebar clutch lever isn't being squeezed.

On some models, it's possible to attach the mechanism in a partially extended position, and/or with the arm situated at the wrong beginning angle.

Would assure the adjuster mechanism is correctly installed and not somehow allowing a loosened adjustment screw to already be mashing against the push rod.

Good Fortune!

:laugh: Success!

Well, after nearly two months battling this thing, I finally got everything together and the clutch lever works just fine.

Turned out that the adjustment screw on the adjuster mechanism had been stripped.
(Probably from me fussing with it so much). I fixed it up with a tap and dye and everything went together just fine.

The previous owner had told me that the gasket on the float bowls in the carburetor was a little leaky, but I had never noticed it. I guess after it the bike had been sitting for so long, the gasket dried up a little bit because when I got the bike running again to take it for a spin, gas was leaking pretty bad out of the carburetor. He said it might expand with time, but it's leaking pretty bad.

So, I just ordered a carb rebuild kit... look for me over on the carburetor forums!

Thanks again for all the ideas and help - I couldn't have done it without you all.