How do I make my clutch pull easier?

T_Dub wrote:

Patton wrote:

T_Dub wrote: ...I did take apart my clutch mechanism, cleaned and greased it....

The best place to start, imo.
The actuator is accessed by removing the sprocket cover.
The actuator is attached to the interior side of the sprocket cover.

Good Fortune!

Yup it was a bit of a pain taking it all apart with all the tiny ball bearings, but with the amount of gunk built up in mine after 30 years I was glad I did. And like I said, APE clutch kit and its not hard to pull.

Our kit has slightly stronger springs, but the key to this kit is that it has an extra friction and steel plate. We increase the clutch holding power by increasing the clutch size, instead of just real heavy springs.

Hey T-Dub, it looks like your middle finger gets a lot of use by the way it is pushing that grip master button down farther than the rest. If you're like me, it's probably to get people's attention after they turn in front of you!
David

APE Jay wrote: Our kit has slightly stronger springs, but the key to this kit is that it has an extra friction and steel plate. We increase the clutch holding power by increasing the clutch size, instead of just real heavy springs.

Yup precisely why I got your kit. Makes much better sense than just getting stronger springs.

Kawboy, exactly! haha

if is that hard to pull , your springs r too stiff, or there is something wrong. i have used the APE springs in mine, and it is not hard to pull at all. u dont need real heavy springs for an 1100.
is it posible that the zx6 perch has a dif lever ratio,or was it just as bad with the stock perch?

I once sat in bumper to bumper traffic for 6 hours, my left hand was shot for 2 days after that. i bought one of these but havent tried it yet. Easy clutch

Mercury Kid wrote: Put heavy duty springs in my 1105 motor and they are a bear on the hand. Anybody have a good setup for the clutch perch and the actuator. I understand basic physics of leverage and such, just looking for somebody thats done this before.

Have you tried just a new set of normal springs? Probably would work fine.

Another option is to use 1/2 heavy duty springs and 1/2 normal springs. It will pull easier and still give you a stronger than normal clutch.

ROFL, T-Dub, thats what came to my mind also.

All good ideas and suggestions. I know, because I tried most haha. Cable is good, pushrod worked just fine when I took it out to rebuild the motor, and the EZ-clutch kit looks like it's just a swap to the later style actuator instead of the Z1 style screw (which I was considering).

The next step is taking out half the stiff springs for stockers. I blew all my money on the motor, so it has a stock clutch that worked well but I wasn't too keen on wasting it in a month, so I opted for springs.

The perches seem to be about the same as far as the leverage is concerned.

Still think I'll look into a junkyard hydraulic setup later on. Or maybe just the slave from the kit above, says it fits in the cover.

Don't mean to pick on you, but -- Cable is good because you think it is, or because it is new? I thought mine was good up until it broke at a stoplight. New cable, lubed (BOEshield T-9), and nice relaxed cable routing and my clutch was easier than ever.

It's new, and lubed, and routed as well as it can be. Out in front of the headlight even. I'm not a simpleton, I go through all the usual stuff before I ask a question. I was looking for a more indepth answer than the obvious. Such as, "oh, use the actuator from an 1100, they're longer" or something to that effect.

In between the jokes and stuff I think you got the answer. Get an APE kit, the extra disk can handle the power. Or get new stock fiber disks, scrub up your metal disks with scotch brite (not too hard, just scuff them), and maybe get some vesrah springs, they're just a bit stiffer than stock. Or get a hydraulic dealie, although an APE kit is cheaper. I think the APE bearing pusher is a good idea too. In my minds, stiffer springs are a band aid solution, since you're masking the real problem, which is a clutch that cant hold at the design plate pressure.