How do I make my clutch pull easier?

Put heavy duty springs in my 1105 motor and they are a bear on the hand. Anybody have a good setup for the clutch perch and the actuator. I understand basic physics of leverage and such, just looking for somebody thats done this before.

LINK: American Classix Hydraulic Clutch Kit

But seriously, I have the APE kit which everyone says is brutal. I actually don't find it bad. Not sure why. I did take apart my clutch mechanism, cleaned and greased it. And I also have the thrust bearing pusher. I have a GP style lever too, maybe that makes some sort of difference which I doubt.

Light springs and a lock up clutch, your hands will thank you!

Les

T_Dub wrote: ...I did take apart my clutch mechanism, cleaned and greased it....

The best place to start, imo.
The actuator is accessed by removing the sprocket cover.
The actuator is attached to the interior side of the sprocket cover.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

T_Dub wrote: ...I did take apart my clutch mechanism, cleaned and greased it....

The best place to start, imo.
The actuator is accessed by removing the sprocket cover.
The actuator is attached to the interior side of the sprocket cover.

Good Fortune!

Yup it was a bit of a pain taking it all apart with all the tiny ball bearings, but with the amount of gunk built up in mine after 30 years I was glad I did. And like I said, APE clutch kit and its not hard to pull.

Would suspect the clutch actuator at hand is the early screw type used on Z1 and KZ900, and probably dry and clogged with crusty old caked grease gunge.





Good Fortune!

I already went through and greased the screw actuator and installed the APE roller pusher. The perch I have is zx600 to match the adjustable lever on the MC, not sure if I can change the lever to get better pull on the cable. Also thinking of lengthening the arm on the screw actuator to get more leverage.

Still getting the motor sorted but even after riding it for a couple minutes around the parking lot it was pretty tiring, and I'm not exactly a wuss haha.

Don't have the funds for the hydraulic kit, might try to piece one together from ZRX or GPZ bits.

Mercury Kid wrote: Don't have the funds for the hydraulic kit, might try to piece one together from ZRX or GPZ bits.

I put a kit together for my 1000 just to be different. I used a Zx7 M/C and slave cylinder and a clutch line from a VF750...I think.

I had pics on here with a small write up but I just searched and can't find anything.

I massages the stock engine cover with an angle grinder for the slave to fit inside. It's not the prettiest but it works very well.

Later, Doug

If not already done, would assure the clutch cable is is well-lubed and in as-new condition. And routed in an easy loop without any kinking or sharp turns. And assure the push rod is straight and moving easily back and forth in its passage.

Good Fortune!

Riding around in a parking lot having to constantly manipulate the clutch would suck on lots of bikes

When your oil is hot, theres no need to use the clutch to up or downshift on these bikes.

Try it -you'll thank me.

Remember, when upshifting back the throttle off quick then smooth it right back while you shift for a seemless upshift.

Downshifting is a bit more difficult. Put some pressure on the shifter peg, when your rpms come down, just bareley nudge the throttle up to a continuous cruise for that gear and shift with your foot.

You'll have it down in no time.