TOPIC:

wireman wrote: alright i got my new amsoil catalog and dealer price list yesterday,so it must be the best!

Jim is a "Story Teller"... Jim runs this, cause he's Crazy Like That.



And when Jim is not feeling the Bike "On the Pipe" he Huffs some of this in the Tank.

hell yeah!

Polar_Bus wrote:

DFIGPZ wrote: Well you have to remember what goes in the engine goes on the clutch plates. so I use amsoil 10w40 synthetic motorcycle specific oil for use with wet clutches.

And i'll bet your getting some clutch slippage if you have the original 25+ year old clutch plates and springs.... However the subject of syn vs. mineral is a hotly contested ongoing debate...

Sorry to say I have never had clutch slippage with the motorcycle specific oil from amsoil.

I can't speak for others but in my case where slightly modified performance build & AZ temps... Synthetic for my baby is the only way to go.... Sure, synthetic oil is additional $$$ but so is a blown engine.

NOTE: Designed for WET (EDITED: CLUTCH ) Engines....

KZR SEcret Police Watching/// Whoa!

Tyler wrote: This has all been discussed many times before,

Here is a link to a pretty extensive discussion on modern engine oild in air cooled kawasaki's.

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/311974-le...-are-kz-riders-using

Perhaps this one of these oil threads should me made into a sticky...

X2

You are whistling in the dark.

Nope, first time we've heard of it...

Where's Otto? Cat piss and a drop of Otto-additive and you'll be golden....

Old Man Rock wrote: NOTE: Designed for WET SUMP Engines....

Err...clutch, you mean? Aren't most "modern" 4 strokes wet sump?

If you prefer, WET CLUTCH.... Tough crowd...

By definition, still applies....
Engine sump/oil pump is the area below the crank shaft. In a wet sump, the oil that you put into the engine is stored beneath the crankshaft in the oil pan.

In a wet sump, the oil pump sucks oil from the bottom of the oil pan through a tube, and then pumps it to the rest of the engine.

In a dry sump, extra oil is stored in a tank outside the engine rather than in the oil pan.

Will that work for you guys....?

Old Man Rock wrote: I can't speak for others but in my case where slightly modified performance build & AZ temps... Synthetic for my baby is the only way to go.... Sure, synthetic oil is additional $$$ but so is a blown engine.

NOTE: Designed for WET SUMP Engines....

wet sump means its a self contained system like the oil pan on your truck,dry sump pumps all the oil to a seperate tank more like a harley.
youre thinking of a wet clutch!

I've already posted the definition that follows/agress with your reply...

I've edited WET CLUTCH...

Wholly crapola... How's this then...

For WET CLUTCH, bearings, transmiision gears, shift drums, shift forks, seals, O-rings, oil pump, crankshaft, crankshaft rods, camshaft, valve tapets, valve springs, cam chain, cam chain top/side idler gears, cam chain guide, piston rings etc... I forget anything there KZR Nazis....?

Will work on Kawasaki GPZ & KZ series 200, 400, 440, 550, 650, 750, Z1, 900 and 1000 series air cooled motorcycles. I think anyways....

Wholly shit.... Mr AMSOIL has awaken from Racheal Ray marathon & spoken....

So what should I use in my Kz700?

Old Man Rock wrote: Nope, first time we've heard of it...

Where's Otto? Cat piss and a drop of Otto-additive and you'll be golden....

I hate pissing into the wind. It seams no one ever learns from your mistakes. Ive done a few years of research now and said my bit. I hate giving extra money to the "record profits this quarter" oil companies so I settled on the well proven Shell Rotella-T with just a bit extra. Change the oil every 5000Mi. or at the end of the season, which ever comes first. and that is it. I will always add a bit of extra ZDDP not really picky on which brand but why spend any more than I have to so Rislone or Lucas is MY preference. So far it has worked quite well on my GPz1150 with .420 lift cams in a late GPz1100 head and oversize ports.

Over and out.