My Kz 1000ltd lost compression in the 2 middle cyl

Thank you.. I will let you know what happens..

Thats a sweet site thanks for the heads up.. think my best bet is the gasket set wont hert to do it all rite the first time. this will all be new to me so I am going to order a manual never tor down a bike before but i have done cars and lawn equipment so it shoud be a fun time. wish me luck!!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationkz1000ltdrider wrote:

...going to order a manual....

Would go for an official Factory Service manual (aka Factory Shop Manual), commonly referred to as an FSM.

The official manuals were published by KHI (Kawasaki Heavy Industies), and are superior to any of the several after-market manuals.

FSM's often appear on ebay.

A good new reproduction FSM is also available from the New Zealand supplier (on ebay). It's a spiral bound version.



Click > stores.ebay.com/e-ClassicBike-Manuals/_i...Desc=1&_sid=28787106

Good Fortune!

will this manual work ok. im having a hard time finding the one you sent me..

kz1000ltdrider wrote:

will this manual work ok. im having a hard time finding the one you sent me..

That's the "supplement" covering aspects of LTD models which differ from the standard model.

It's good to have also, in addition to the FSM for standard model.

I have not actually examined the earlier mentioned spiral bound manual from New Zealand. But according to the sales pitch, it supposedly covers both standard and LTD models.

If the price is right for the supplement, could purchase it, and keep looking for an official FSM (covering the standard model).

Good Fortune!

Would suggest putting "1977 KZ1000 LTD" in you posting signature.

To see how, click here > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=8&id=382004#382317

Good Fortune!

I tore down the top end of my bike today. The valves are seated nice and the pistons and rings look good with no wear. The cam barrings all look good. So I am hoping it is the gaskets. They both look okay, I didn't see any blow by or any signs of leaking on them but they look pretty old. I ordered a new set of them and going to keep my fingers crossed that that is what it is. I couldn't find the manual that you told me to get but did fine myself tarring it apart.. I just need the torq spec's if you have them. Thanks for all your help I appreciate it. I will let you know how it goes.:woohoo:

Mike, Did you pull the cyls to inspect rings? at your' point, a dramatic loss of compression should be visually apparent. I would,,, solvent test valves for leakage, & if not done remove cyls & check for broken rings/broken piston ring lands. A blown head gasket resulting in compression loss (my 1st choice) would have been apparent by the failure of the "fire ring" the metal seal of the head gasket surrounding cyl. bore. if not there, feel you have another prob... Keep us in the loop, Luck G

I did and gaskets looked real good .. so I just did the salvent test on the valve seats and the middle 2 are leeking and the out side ones are fine no leeking so I think I sould get them reseated and some new valves a..

Mike, sudden changes w/valve seating raises red flags... when you diss-assemble, some things to look for, carbon chips on valve faces/seats..striation/gall marks on valve stems. burnt valve/seats (pits). bent valves (usually acomany'd w/crecent marks attop pistons) A quick visual check,...put suspect valve in a drill & give it a ride. tippy valves will be obvious, if present, (or even if not) look closely to the exposed portion of guides in intake/exhaust ports for "belling/cracks". while rare, its possible if things get hot enough exhaust valves could get "sticky" & in conjunction w/ a quick lapse around redline make contact. new valves are almost always a good thing... in addition to being "true" fresh faces aid in getting a good seat/width aspect,return shim clearances (without tipping)& provide better cooling. again luck G

Thanks for the help... Im going to bring it to the machine shop and have it gone through and see what I need.. I will let you know.. any tips on sone cheap valves? its good to have you on line for all the help thanks..

a lot of times its the inner two cylinders that have problems due to the fact that they dont get the cooling benefits the outer two get...if i remember correctly my 85 gs1150 had the cooler lines going into the head in this area after they left the cooler.......