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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 04:55 #404795

  • Old Man Rock
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Oh BTW.... See RED box.... :pinch: :whistle: Obviously this is slightly different hen your engine but....

Notice the recommended tool (#5)... Now where have we seen that T handle threaded tool before Hmmmmm.....:unsure:

1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az
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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:00 #404796

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An M18 bolt is easy to find at the TSC or other local tractor/farm store, it's the fine thread part that is hard to find. One interesting thing about Canada is the interesting dichotomy in units of measure. Yes we use the metric system, but many things were never completely converted.

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:10 #404798

  • larrycavan
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9am53 wrote:

Yeah, my patience usually wears people down, but this motor is tougher than most people! lol I am getting sick of looking at the motor in the same state it was in weeks ago, but the day I get to split the cases will be that much sweeter! Thankfully this is not my main ride, so I am not in a rush. Last years project is running fantastic, I did an 800 km ride in very cold temperatures last weekend and she was a dream, so obviously I don't suck that much!


You first and biggest mistake without having a proper tool was in pulling the top end off before you pulled the rotor.

I get frustrated with people that try to go to step 15 before they do the first 14 :laugh: .... so don't get mad at me Adam.... I'll get on your case from time to time but dam it boy.....you need that...suck it up and be a man... ;) or ride around with the breeze blowing your dress up in your face :woohoo:

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:11 #404800

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Old Man Rock wrote:

Oh BTW.... See RED box.... :pinch: :whistle: Obviously this is slightly different hen your engine but....

Notice the recommended tool (#5)... Now where have we seen that T handle threaded tool before Hmmmmm.....:unsure:


Yes, but turning did nothing...there is something holding this thing on, and just simple turning like those instructions say is useless in my situation. Repeating that I should use that method to remove the rotor is just stubborness.

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:15 #404801

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:) The mallet turns the handle Adam... I'll do a video of the next one I pull and post it using that tool.

They never pull off like the manual would have you believe or the guy at the factor has really strong wrists from flogging the bishop too much :laugh:

Just for you Adam

youtube.com/watch?v=t6Lp4w8wyy0

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:22 #404803

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"Yes, but turning did nothing"... Turning what, you didn't have the correct tools....

As for for Larry and Plum jumping my crap... Whoa, no doubt... You should have heard the conversations when I busted my engine case.... :blink: :laugh:

Let's see if I can remember some of them...
"WTF you do that for"
"Smooth move exlax"
"Are you retarded"
"Yellow school bus on it's way to pick you up"
"Put in the coil mod... Fixes engine cases as well"
"Put on your big girl princess panties and deal with it"

Yeah like I wasn't feeling like pissed off crap as it was and then I had to tuck my tail and listen to their shit... :S :angry: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

BTW, wouldn't have it any other way...;)
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:23 #404804

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larrycavan wrote:

9am53 wrote:

Yeah, my patience usually wears people down, but this motor is tougher than most people! lol I am getting sick of looking at the motor in the same state it was in weeks ago, but the day I get to split the cases will be that much sweeter! Thankfully this is not my main ride, so I am not in a rush. Last years project is running fantastic, I did an 800 km ride in very cold temperatures last weekend and she was a dream, so obviously I don't suck that much!


You first and biggest mistake without having a proper tool was in pulling the top end off before you pulled the rotor.

I get frustrated with people that try to go to step 15 before they do the first 14 :laugh: .... so don't get mad at me Adam.... I'll get on your case from time to time but dam it boy.....you need that...suck it up and be a man... ;)


I had to remove the top end to get the motor downstairs, my staiwell is really old and narrow and steep, and I couldn't get it down there safely withought removing some weight/size. Not to mention that I have never heard or been told that you remove the rotor first, remember, this is my first time doing this? I don't know what step 14 or 15 are, if somebody here doesn't tell me it and the manual doesn't tell me it, then I don't know it. I can take people making fun of it taking 3 weeks to get a rotor off, I would too, but I don't get pro's geting mad at a first timer when he is having a particularly tough time with something.

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:28 #404805

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9am53 wrote:

An M18 bolt is easy to find at the TSC or other local tractor/farm store, it's the fine thread part that is hard to find. One interesting thing about Canada is the interesting dichotomy in units of measure. Yes we use the metric system, but many things were never completely converted.


Yeah, like any car made in the 80's or 90's. I was told by my teachers in school that we would be on the metric system by the time we were out of school. It seems that the only things that really completely converted were soda and illicit drugs. It would sure make my life easier if we just went all metric.

What pitch is that thread? I can't remember.
1978 KZ1000 A2 Click--->Build Thread
2004 ZX-10R
2007 Harley Sportster 1200
2020 Harley Street Glide Special
Angola, IN

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:29 #404806

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1.5mm, 2.5 mm is available everywhere, but not the fine thread

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:30 #404807

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I just might be able to find something. Too bad work is so busy, or I'd just make you one.
1978 KZ1000 A2 Click--->Build Thread
2004 ZX-10R
2007 Harley Sportster 1200
2020 Harley Street Glide Special
Angola, IN

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 05:31 #404808

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Three weeks and that rotor is still on? :blink: Mine came off by itself on accident the other day. I was told that it is common on high compression engines :P . See after this you will never have to worry about taking it off again. You will have trouble keeping it on. :laugh: But seriously, It is quite simple. Tighten the bolt as much as you possibly can and than heat up the center hub (into which you tightened the bolt) and being careful not to heat the magnets, and the rotor will pop right off.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000

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KZ porn! 07 Oct 2010 06:06 #404812

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9am53 wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

9am53 wrote:

Yeah, my patience usually wears people down, but this motor is tougher than most people! lol I am getting sick of looking at the motor in the same state it was in weeks ago, but the day I get to split the cases will be that much sweeter! Thankfully this is not my main ride, so I am not in a rush. Last years project is running fantastic, I did an 800 km ride in very cold temperatures last weekend and she was a dream, so obviously I don't suck that much!


You first and biggest mistake without having a proper tool was in pulling the top end off before you pulled the rotor.

I get frustrated with people that try to go to step 15 before they do the first 14 :laugh: .... so don't get mad at me Adam.... I'll get on your case from time to time but dam it boy.....you need that...suck it up and be a man... ;)


I had to remove the top end to get the motor downstairs, my staiwell is really old and narrow and steep, and I couldn't get it down there safely withought removing some weight/size. Not to mention that I have never heard or been told that you remove the rotor first, remember, this is my first time doing this? I don't know what step 14 or 15 are, if somebody here doesn't tell me it and the manual doesn't tell me it, then I don't know it. I can take people making fun of it taking 3 weeks to get a rotor off, I would too, but I don't get pro's geting mad at a first timer when he is having a particularly tough time with something.


Adam,

You were given every conceivable method of pulling that thing.

I'm not saying that the rotor isn't stuck. It may well be. The point is, if it was going to come off with and axle and a ball bearing it would be off by now.

At one point you said you bought some harbor freight universal puller. What did that cost?

You could have purchased the correct tool for probably less than $20 and bought yourself an electric impact gun for not a lot of money. Combined they would = ROTOR OFF...

The electric impact would always be useful. The rotor puller is handy to have.

The puller I showed you has the same shape as the one in the photo but it's much stronger and will pop the rotor without shocking the magnets.

Restoring an old Kawasaki can't be approached like a lottery ticket purchase....eg. Dollar & a Dream won't cut it...

You want to work on bikes then buy some tools and make your life a lot easier. That's what the Pros do.



JMO

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