TOPIC:

Patton wrote:

9am53 wrote:
yeah fastenal said they had one, but it would be a week and a half because they had to get it from one of their stores in toronto...they said today that they had only one bolt and it is in dallas, so they can't get it in. I am not going there again. Z1 doesn't let me down, so they get my money.

9am53 wrote:

I called BRafasco this morning and they didn't have it either...BUT they gave me the number of a little local guy that has several M18 x 1.5 bolts in stock! So I am going to be going to see this guy on friday after I get paid to buy one of these buggers and get this done, woohoo!

TeK9iNe wrote:

Soooooooo...... How bout that rotor?

Uncertain why the flywheel puller from Z1E wasn't ordered.

Remains to be seen whether little local guy's M18 x 1.5 bolt will suffice.

Meanwhile, there are thousands of youtube musical videos available to pass the time.

Expecting L.C. to soon post a 60 second video tutorial on flywheel removal. Which will hopefully include a close-up of the dead blow hammer, together with point(s) of impact.

Later, 9am53 will produce and post a similar video (under the Viking label), which may be a trilogy due to its anticipated extraordinary length.

Good Fortune!

Beat On!!!!!

I'm waiting for the thread about how to repair the threads in the end of the crank.....pretty sure it's coming along any time now....

also a good penetrating oil can help. the best available is ZYGLO penetrant dye. It is used for finding cracks that can be unmeasureable with normal tools. Normally this dye is used with a cleaner, developer and special UV light for verifiying if a crack is present in metal or plastic parts. Unfortuantely, the flourscent stuff in it can be mildly corrosive, so should be removed immediately after finishing. Often this can be found at an engine rebuilder or clyinder head shop, anyone who does Non Destructive Testing (NDT)

I have a '79 Honda XR80 that has the same prob, and someone before me stripped out the puller threads, I broke a jaw puller trying to get it off. And the rotor puller threads are left handed anyway, I have the special tool, but it is useless with no threads to lock it into. that is why I followed this thread.

My previous trick has worked for me dozens of times on KZ's and Yammy XS'es

and a ball bearing can come out of a used paint spray can with a mixing ball in it, often rejected bearings are used in them, sometimes they are glass tho not useful

Holly Crapola... This is still an on going project....

Where the hell did you order this tool from Kawasaki Japan?

They must have had the Ninja Blade Masters fold the damn steel 1000 times for hardening....

9am53 wrote:

I tried that 3 weeks ago...it didn't work.

Well it would be kind of tough to reall ALL 12 pages and catch all the details! Pretty amazing how long this thread is....are you sorry you started it?

small amount c4+igniter+ one large PO'd Viking=Poot.No more Mister Rotorus (er,and maybe no more bike either).bj

WOW!!! I thought I had patience. Keep the faith brother...

wargoth wrote:

WOW talk about everybody doing it the hard way.

1-Get a bolt or axle (not the one for your bike is best ) that fits inside the rotor thread properly

2- find a suitable size ball bearing, 1/4 inch or larger, to fit in between the bolt and crank shaft end, but leaving at least 5-6 threads in the rotor before it gets snug

3- If the engine is dissambled to the point you are at in the pic, block up 1 or 2 pistons against the engine block with peices of 2X4 boards stood on edege. If still asembled have a helper hold the crankshaft on the other side, or simply stuff a rag between any supported and exposed gears to block them.

4-Tighten the "puller" bolt to about 25-50 ft/lb of torque.


5-rap the top of the head end of the puller bolt with a steel hammer sharply.

This is all it should take to get this off, but sometimes retighening and more beating is required. Watch out, the rotor may "jump" off at you or the floor.

Who would have thought!

been there... done that... OK - good info, little late.

patience is a virtue and my curse little grasshopper.

79MKII wrote:

9am53 wrote:

I tried that 3 weeks ago...it didn't work.

Well it would be kind of tough to reall ALL 12 pages and catch all the details! Pretty amazing how long this thread is....are you sorry you started it?

I am not sorry I started it as it has been mildly amusing, and hopefully some of the advice will actually get the damn rotor off! I do regret however that some people have gotten pissy since I don't understand why

Adam... Keep at it for now it's a quest...

And you're correct.... Don't worry or concern yourself about the ribbing for now it's man VS machine....

We've all been there where "ok, now it's war" attitude.... You will come off one way or the other....

Yeah, my patience usually wears people down, but this motor is tougher than most people! lol I am getting sick of looking at the motor in the same state it was in weeks ago, but the day I get to split the cases will be that much sweeter! Thankfully this is not my main ride, so I am not in a rush. Last years project is running fantastic, I did an 800 km ride in very cold temperatures last weekend and she was a dream, so obviously I don't suck that much!

Adam, you're right about the patience. I'm about the most patient person I know about my bike. Everyone always wants to know if I'm done yet. No, because I don't want it to be half assed. But I think you have me beat.

Just like OMR says, get mad at it, you'll get the rotor off. I just can't believe that a metric bolt would be so hard to find in Canada even if it is rural.