KZ750 LTD H2 1981 NEW BUILD FIRST ENGINE START

hi kz mechanics

thank you to all members who have given me sound advice for the last few parts for the rebuild.

q) what is the correct way to start an engine from a fresh rebuild the engine is very low mileage - 6,600 please.

q) is this method correct please?

1) remove my spark plugs

2) don't put fuel in the tank

3) connect battery and turn the ignition on, see if the bike turns over.

the pistons will be lubricated and the oil light goes out!

*** written by a rookie bike mechanic dudes! ***

many thanks for all of your advice.

regards

angie

I'd spray some light oil in the sparkplug holes and using the false "Nut"(it's about 17mm next to the mechanical ignition advancer)turn the engine over several times to get some lubrication on the cylinder walls.

The engine will smoke, pop and run rough untill the excess oil is burned off.

When breaking in new piston rings, vary the rpms; that is find a nice long not heavily traveled road,go through the gears(not to redline)and then use engine braking to force the new rings against the cylinder walls.

Others will be along for more advise........

hi mfolks

thanks for your message!

i've made a typing error in this thread, sorry!

we've only imported the engine as is, it didn't need rebuilding. is only has 6,600 miles on it.
we've just stripped the frame, swing arm and other hard metal brackets and had them rust proofed and coated etc.

the carbs have been professionally serviced, so this now bolted on. new inlet and outlet rubbers fitted, they were expensive.

we've decided to try and turn the bike over to circulate the oil. the plugs have been removed and a little spray of wd40 sprayed into each cylinder.

* we've to wait now as the throttle is still drying from clear coat, so tomorrow will will attempt to turn the bike over. fingers crossed.

any advice greatly appreciated, cream cakes all round as and we connect the fuel etc!..

many thanks for helping us!

regards

angie & Dad!

hi mfolks

i can't find the false nut to hand turn the engine.
where is the advancer please?

can you send me a little photo please?

first time that we've done this. all bikes are similar, not the same.

many thanks

angie

He's offline at the moment.
Look at the cover on the right side of the motor, there should be 2 screws that hold it on, its about 4" in dia. In side you will see 2 ignition pick up coils, if electronic Ignition, or 2 sets of points. There is a 13mm head and a 17mm head, use the larger 17mm spanner head ONLY.
Also while in there you should "Lube" the advancer mechanism, your book will tell about this.

hi motor

i hope you're! many thanks for sending us tech messages.

i now know where the 17mm nut is, thanks buddy!

q) which way do we rotate the engine, clockwise or anticlockwise?

q2) ere we ok to of put wd40 into the cylinders, not much, just to help with lubrication?

q3) how many times do we turn the engine?

it's not mention in the manuals that we've. the clymer or haynes? we might've missed it, being rookies

many thanks motor

eric (dad)

Looking at the 17mm nut, turn in a clock wise motion. This is the normal rotation. WD-40 is more of a solvent and water dispersant than a lubricant. I would use Marval Mystery, ATF or even the Motor oil you have chosen for the crank case. It won't take a bunch of oil, just a small amount down each plug hole. A piece of fuel line dipped into a container, then hold your thumb over the end, put it at the spark plug hole, and release your thumb. Crank the motor by hand several revolutions, then I'd let it sit a while. Then using the starter, with the plugs put still, crank it a few times just to blow out the "Extra" oil. This will help keep the smoke and plug fouling to a minimum. Then put the plugs in for a Fuel and Fire start.

Yeah....don't crank it with the starter if you have the plugs out with the Marval Mystery in....guess how I know that.

Angel...don't you have a Factory Service Manual? Here's a link to a pdf copy of the manual for our bike. Make sure you look in the supplemental pages in the back for additional information on your year bike.

The pics are a little dark, but I found the info to be better than clymers, and I've heard it's better than Haynes

www.mbsween.com/kz750l3/manual.html

You'll want to print out the "full manual". I also printed out the wiring diagram on the same page. It's nice to have the color one that matches the wiring colors.

Good luck!

hi motor

what star's you all are on this forum!
i'm so much happier that 'experts' such as yourselves
and like minded bikers all help each other. bless you all!

i've now passed on your hints and tips to other kzr's.
learning motorcycle maintenance is so much different from paint animals. i'm a wildlife artist!.. you will be surprised how my bikers want me to paint a portrait of their bikes! go on now, all put your hands up! form a queue!

many thanks bikers!

angel

Glad we could all offer useful advice! I love getting these old Dinosaurs back on the road. They are so different from the newer sport bikes that people notice.

For an example, next time you park at a cafe, see how many people stoll over saying they had one, or their Father/Brother did.

hi mfolks

the term dinosaur is right for these bikes.
i showed the bike to an irish neighbour, he said 'that's a proper bike, not like the plastic rockets that you see, like peas in pods!'

here is a photo of the pickup coils:-

i do notice that there is a nut with two sizes. has i've got to remove anything or just use a socket for rotating it clockwise?

why is there an 'L' on the head of the bolt?

many thanks

eric