Valve adjustment question...

The jets were the stock size, I don't remember the exact numbers but when you buy the K&L carb kits they also come with one size larger than stock which was what were installed. The carbs were rebuilt by a shop in my area, and the carbs were ultrasonically cleaned, float levels were supposed to have been set and the carbs synched, etc. all at that time, about 2500 miles ago. I've got a day off of work so I think I'll be going over my electricals, including visually checking my spark. I know that my stator is original, as I have had it out, and that I still have a separate regulator and rectifier, so neither of these would surprise me as being the suspect!
Thanks for all the help so far to everyone!

I'd check first the alternator output wires behind the sprocket cover, they are usually 3 YELLOW ones, bundled with the neutral indicator,oil pressure and side stand switch(if your bike has one).

A little corrosion on the bullet connectors can lower output voltage to the charging system.

The next place I'd check would be the mating connectors at the regulator/rectifier. On some earlier Kawasaki's they were seperate modules.

The handle bar switches(both left and right) need inspection for corrosion too. The right one has the run/stop and start switch, the left one the headlight,turn signal and horn switches.

The headlight will need to be removed to check the connectors inside the housing; I'd disconnect one connector, spray it with a good electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40!!) and reconnect it moving on to another.

I use a very good brand of electrical contact cleaner/preservative called "De-oxit" on my bike's many and various electrical connectors. www.deoxit.com is their website.

The spray can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores in the U.S. or at any electronic supply places.

madmatt1 wrote:

...been fouling up plugs. The carbs were just redone, jetted up one size...bike runs great with clean plugs, idles nicely when warm. I use the choke extremely sparingly, and don't do a lot of idling. But the plugs are so sooty after the last 1000 miles I put on, that it started to run pretty crappy....

Patton wrote:

...Would also assure fuel levels inside float bowls are correct (especially not too high) by performing the clear tube test.
Too high fuel level can cause overly rich mixture even with otherwise perfect carbs, perfect compression and valve clearances, and perfect properly timed spark....

madmatt1 wrote:

...carbs were rebuilt by a shop in my area...float levels were supposed to have been set....

Trust, but verify .

Would confirm fuel level via clear tube test.

Good Fortune!

Another thought:

1.Sparkplug caps can fail as they have an RFI surpression resistor inside that may be comming intermittent. I'd replace them.

2.Sparkplug wires get heat aged and may open up the insulation when hot, weaking the spark. 7mm non resistive sparkplugs wires are available from z1 enterprises for greater spark energy.

If by went up 1 jet size, you are reffering to the pilots, then YES, this can cause it to run much richer than necessary, as MAC exhuast systems only require a small (1/4 to 1/2 turn) adjustment to the mixture screws, NOT an entire jump in pilot size.

Put the smaller size pilot back in and tune your mixture screws correctly.

If referring to main jets, then dissregard.

Also... a sync is only temporarily done, if not performed with a manometer while engine is running. Bench syncs suck...

To check sync: Get engine idling off choke, then lower idle down to point where its almost stalling. After a couple minutes, 1 or more of your pipes will get cool from not recieveing enough fuel charge from the carbs.
If this is the case, then a vacuum sync is absolutely necessary.

GL.