sleeve installation

Yes the oven method, I use it, Cold Beer while you wait for the sleeves to drop!

Most home freezers only get down to 20+ degrees above zero. They only have to be below 32 degrees so food will stay frozen. All that will do is make stuff cold. The specs that the other guy posted showed the temp at -5. That is a lot colder than a home freezer.

We tried all of that years ago with sleeves, guides, valve seats, etc. Dry Ice worked the best. At -100 degrees, dry ice would shrink a bronze guide .0015". One of the cylinder head guys I know has a vat of liguid nitrigon in his shop for putting valve seats in.

But for sleeve installation, you only need to heat the block at 350 for an hour and they drop right in.

KZ1000s have the loosest stock sleeves we have seen. We have a special fixture we use on them when boring and honing so the sleeves won't move.

One day this guy pulls up in front of our old shop in his pickup. It was a bright sunny Calif day. He jumps out and reaches in the back and picks up a KZ1000 block he brought for us to work on. He turns around with it in his hands and all four sleeves come flying our and were rolling around in the street. :woohoo:

Do you use the Loctite 640 sleeve retainer green liquid?

APE Jay wrote:

Most home freezers only get down to 20+ degrees above zero. They only have to be below 32 degrees so food will stay frozen. All that will do is make stuff cold. The specs that the other guy posted showed the temp at -5. That is a lot colder than a home freezer.

We tried all of that years ago with sleeves, guides, valve seats, etc. Dry Ice worked the best. At -100 degrees, dry ice would shrink a bronze guide .0015". One of the cylinder head guys I know has a vat of liguid nitrigon in his shop for putting valve seats in.

But for sleeve installation, you only need to heat the block at 350 for an hour and they drop right in.

KZ1000s have the loosest stock sleeves we have seen. We have a special fixture we use on them when boring and honing so the sleeves won't move.

One day this guy pulls up in front of our old shop in his pickup. It was a bright sunny Calif day. He jumps out and reaches in the back and picks up a KZ1000 block he brought for us to work on. He turns around with it in his hands and all four sleeves come flying our and were rolling around in the street. :woohoo:

Sleeves on the roll..hey Jay :lol:

Loose..you bet they are. I've seen them spin in the block when the block was being honed with a power stroke hone.

Goodson has product called MFF-8 [Minnesota Fast Freeze] that is sprayed on seats and guides. Takes them down to -50F. I've been meaning to order some in for a while now.

Make sure you get the wife out of the house when you put the jugs in her oven and pull the battery out of your smoke detector. If you don't get rid of your wife she is guaranteed to castrate you when you do this. :blush:

liquid co2 does a good job cooling things fast :laugh:

larrycavan wrote:

APE Jay wrote:

Most home freezers only get down to 20+ degrees above zero. They only have to be below 32 degrees so food will stay frozen. All that will do is make stuff cold. The specs that the other guy posted showed the temp at -5. That is a lot colder than a home freezer.

We tried all of that years ago with sleeves, guides, valve seats, etc. Dry Ice worked the best. At -100 degrees, dry ice would shrink a bronze guide .0015". One of the cylinder head guys I know has a vat of liguid nitrigon in his shop for putting valve seats in.

But for sleeve installation, you only need to heat the block at 350 for an hour and they drop right in.

KZ1000s have the loosest stock sleeves we have seen. We have a special fixture we use on them when boring and honing so the sleeves won't move.

One day this guy pulls up in front of our old shop in his pickup. It was a bright sunny Calif day. He jumps out and reaches in the back and picks up a KZ1000 block he brought for us to work on. He turns around with it in his hands and all four sleeves come flying our and were rolling around in the street. :woohoo:

Sleeves on the roll..hey Jay :lol:

Loose..you bet they are. I've seen them spin in the block when the block was being honed with a power stroke hone.

Goodson has product called MFF-8 [Minnesota Fast Freeze] that is sprayed on seats and guides. Takes them down to -50F. I've been meaning to order some in for a while now.

My 900 sleeves spun in the block also. Machinest loctited them in place. Said the loctite could cause hot spots though.

OK. This is an old topic. I remember heating a block in the oven just to cure paint supported at the bottom of the sleeves. Sure enough the block dropped and the sleeves came out the top at like 200 degrees. So they're obviously a mild press fit. How come nobody just presses them out and in?

Gotta tell this story. I worked for Pontiac in the early '80s. Remember when the Fieros were burning to the ground from oil leaks? The standard engine was the Iron Duke, cast iron 2.5L 4-banger. They used cam to crank gears, and the cam gear was made of some kind of fiber with a steel hub pressed onto the camshaft. A little wear and they made a horrendous noise. So the repairs were all warranty. Pontiac paid us like 10 hours to drop the engine, pull the cam and press the old gear off and the new one on. Of course the art of working at a dealership is beating ridiculous warranty labor time. Sooo, on the car, we pulled the cam cover. broke away the fiber part of the gear, then split the steel hub with a pneumatic chisel. Took the new gear, froze the hub with straight R12, and it slipped on the camshaft like nothing. Just lost a good buddy in NY who I collaborated with on the idea.

VTEC wrote: OK. This is an old topic. I remember heating a block in the oven just to cure paint supported at the bottom of the sleeves. Sure enough the block dropped and the sleeves came out the top at like 200 degrees. So they're obviously a mild press fit. How come nobody just presses them out and in?

They are cold pressed in at the factory but pressing them out cold and back in gradually makes them a looser fit each time which is not a good thing.
If you press them out cold you will see a slight silver tinge on the liner which is alloy lost off the block.

One of my bores is badly pitted upon unsiezing others are great could I replace the liner and go or do they have to be machined 
btw anyone with some kz1000a barrels for sale 
Kind regards Samantha

wrote:

One of my bores is badly pitted upon unsiezing others are great could I replace the liner and go or do they have to be machined 
btw anyone with some kz1000a barrels for sale 
Kind regards Samantha

There's no problem replacing individual liners but it will have to be bored or honed for the piston depending on it's condition.

Video of it being done: