smokin like hell

Leave the Ape Hangers on it and the seat. Dont fix the smoke or any leaks either. Throw a crooked Harley emblem on the tank and nobody will care as this is normal for an HD. Others will think it is cool. While you are at it pull the baffle and wrap the pipes.

Check the compression and show us a pic of the plugs. Drain the tank and replace the gas.

By the way I rode a KZ way back when with Apes on it and I still like the look. I also have a Sissy Bar for mine that I put on sometimes that these guys hate...Russ

First off Welcome back again, and I thank you for your service. I would pull the carbs and screw the main jet back in, the one that is laying in the bottom of the bowl in suspect cylinder. If the jets are all in place dig a little deeper and do a compression check.

When you get over there keep in touch so we can send some comforts from home. Cookies, magazines and whatever yall need from home. Give me the address and I would be happy to help the troops.

i second what patton said check you oil for fuel it could be that you have a bad petcock or bad float valves which will cause the bottom end to fill with gas and it has to go somewhere.

well kzrider once again better than any manual, thanks for your well wishes and good ideas at least i have some starting points now if only one of you possess the power to make the thunderstorm go away so i can start checking these things. now i just got to figure out how to sneak it over there with me i'll let ya'll know if any of your suggestions lead me to the solution.

Hi, Funny enough i have the same Problem on my 81 kz650 H1.

only on Cylinder 2. fule coming out of exaust etc..

I started while riding the bike..
I checked the carbs all looks good.

will do compression test..

what does the compression test consist of?

djcamp10 wrote:

what does the compression test consist of?

From KZr Filebase:

Compression Gauge


A compression gauge is a cheap but worthwhile addition to any tool kit. The gauge gives a reading of the
compression in kilopascals (kPa) and/or pounds per square inch (psi). There are two types are available,
one has a rubber cone which must be pushed into the plug hole whilst cranking the engine. This is easy
with electric start but very difficult to do on your own if only kick starting is available. The other type screws
into the spark plug hole and leaves your hands free.

Getting a compression reading it very easy and can be done in a few minutes. The engine should be run
prior to taking the reading, to allow parts to expand and the oil supply to be fed around the engine. Cold
engine readings may not be as accurate as piston and bore will be cold and unlubricated.


Remove spark plugs one at a time and check their condition. Oily plugs will indicate that excess oil
is getting into the combustion chamber due to a worn bore, worn or broken rings, or worn valve
guides and/or valve guide seals. Burnt plugs may indicate a vacuum leak or too lean a mixture.


It is important that the throttle be held wide open whilst taking the readings, to allow maximum air to
be drawn into the cylinder. Loop electrical / duct tape around the throttle grip, and then around the
front brake lever to hold the throttle fully open.


Remove all four spark plugs from the cylinder head but leave them attached to the ignition leads.
Lay each spark plug on the cylinder head so that the metal body of the spark plug is making good
contact with the metal of the cylinder head. This will provide the "ground path" for the electrical
spark and will ensure that the coils are not damaged while turning the engine over with the started
motor.


Attach the compression gauge to one cylinder making sure of a good seal with the rubber cone
type, by twisting into the thread slightly. Crank the engine through four compression strokes (
approx three seconds)


At each compression stroke the gauge will pulse slightly. Make a note of the first and last
readings.


If using electric start, make sure that the battery is well charged.


If using the kick starter, turn the engine just over compression for the cylinder you are
checking, then give several healthy kicks in quick succession.


If the cylinder is in good condition......


The first pulse should be at least 350 kPa (50 psi). This may be a little hard to see if you use
the electric starter.


The last pulse should be within the manufacturers specification. i.e.. between 950-1450 kPa
(140 -210 psi)


The difference between any of the four cylinders should not be more than about 10%. (100
kPa / 14 psi). This third point is more important than the actual figure obtained on the last
pulse. eg Readings of 140, 145, 140, 145 suggest the compression is down a bit and a top
end overhaul may be needed in the next six months. But readings of 180, 180, 175 and 150
indicate a definite problem in the cylinder with the low reading, which should be investigated
immediately to avoid possible expensive problems later

1 of 2 19/10/2005 2:26 PM


If the compression is HIGHER than 1450 kPa / 210 psi, then check the following


Carbon build up on the piston crown and/or cylinder head caused by leaking valve stem oil
seals and/or worn piston oil rings
Incorrect thickness head and /or base gasket


If the compression is LOWER than 950 kPa / 140 psi, then check the following


Gas leak around the cylinder head caused by a damaged head gasket and/or warped cylinder
head
Condition of valve seats
Valve to camshaft clearance. If the valve requires unusually large shims to obtain the proper


clearance, then the valve may be bent and not seating properly.
Piston to cylinder wear
Piston ring and/or piston ring grove wear



If the reading in a cylinder is LOW, then spray a small amount of oil into the cylinder and take a
compression reading again. If this second reading is more than 10% higher than the first reading (e.g. 1st
reading = 140 psi, 2nd reading = 175 psi), then worn rings should be considered. If the second reading
stays approximately the same as the first reading, then worn or damaged valve/s should be considered.

While a compression gauge is a handy tool, a Leak Down Tester is better.


2 of 2 19/10/2005 2:26 PM

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Good Fortune!

now thats a start thank you time to go diagnose this thing