cam chain tensioners

Hey guys,

I'm working on my 1981 kz550b2 and found that I've got quite a rattling cam chain. So far I didn't investigate the problem, but I know rattling cam chains are not uncommon in this type of bike. I also know that the tensioners are not the best in the world, so I might have to look for another cam chain tensioner. Now what I wanted to find out was which cam chain tensioners fit my bike? Cause I would think if I was Kawasaki I wouldn't redesign a cam chain tensioner for every bike, but I would make the cylinder block in such a way that I can use an existing cam chain tensioner...for axample...would a GPz600 tensioner fit?? Coz they're way easier to find second hand...

Any other suggestions?

Cheers!
Dirk

The cam chain tensioners work fine until people damage them. Most people, (even Kawasaki mechanics) don't realize you can't re-install the valve cover without releasing the cam chain tensioner. The valve cover has a chain guide on it and is an integral part of the cam timing. When you force the cover down without loosening the cam chain tension, you stretch the chain or grind the chain guides or damage the chain tensioner.

The system works well as long as it doesn't get damaged by mechanics. Most of them, however, do get damaged/stretched as the bikes change ownership... especially when people don't read the repair manuals. (There are even warnings in the text).

There are a few aftermarket chain tensioners available for the 550's. I'm not sure who makes them, but they are usually manual adjustment type. This won't fix the underlying problems if the chain is already stretched or the guides are damaged, which is often the case. The other problem with the manual ones is people forget to adjust them. An undamaged, automatic one will probably work just as well and is automatic.

I bought a new manual "APE" cam chain tensioner. In retrospect, I think I would have been happier if I bought a NOS or salvage automatic tensioner. The APE are now sold at Z1 and from APE directly, but the colour is a horrible metallic blue, so I painted mine grey to better match the engine.

I saw the guys packaging up some black ones yesterday

that's okay Jay the "horribile" blue matches my eyes so i like it myself. black is boring you always need some color in your life.

A used tensioner will probably be just as good as the one you already have.Just remove the short bolt in the side of the tensioner,stick a small screwdriver in the hole and push the tensioner against the chain while rolling the motor backswards a little to take up the slack in the chain then replace it with a longer bolt with a nut and snug it up and use the nut to lock it in place.You have now created a manual cam chain tensioner.

81kz550b2 wrote:

Hey guys,

I'm working on my 1981 KZ550-B2 and found that I've got quite a rattling cam chain. So far I didn't investigate the problem, but I know rattling cam chains are not uncommon in this type of bike.
Cheers!
Dirk

Just an observation... I had a lot of funky sounds coming from my engine when I got it from the OP. Like you after some research I began to believe that it was inherent to the engine design. Over time I auto-adjusted the tensioner, adjusted the carbs air/gas ratio and timing without a lot of improvement.

Then one day I bought a set of vacuum gauges and did the carb sync. What a difference. Runs as smooth as a sewing machine... really.

So now, hearing reports of rattles, I wonder how many KZ's out there are just in need of a good carb sync. Makes me wonder?

Best of success.
Bill

PS
Got access to vacuum gauges?
Bill

txturbo wrote:

A used tensioner will probably be just as good as the one you already have.Just remove the short bolt in the side of the tensioner,stick a small screwdriver in the hole and push the tensioner against the chain while rolling the motor backswards a little to take up the slack in the chain then replace it with a longer bolt with a nut and snug it up and use the nut to lock it in place.You have now created a manual cam chain tensioner.

The 550 tensioner is slightly different. It doesn't have the little side bolt like on the 750's.

Yeah, should have mentioned like Bill did, synchronizing the carbs will go a very long way to quieting down the cam chain rattle and the primary chain slap (louder clunking down low in the motor, usually loud when idling cold).

One good thing about manual tensioners, and why Kawasaki should have used them instead, is when you remove the valve cover and put it back on, you don't have to mess with the tensioner.

The APE tensioner works realy well and it comes with a new gasket.

P.S.

I wasn't trying to hurt anyones feelings when I commented on the colour of the tensioner.

thats okay they really don't match my eyes either i just like the color.

PS
Got access to vacuum gauges?
Bill

got a set yes, but I don't believe this is the problem. I know this bike quite well and would be surprised if the carbs are way out of sync. Unless the bike is very sensitive to the slightest unsynchronisation I don't think this is it it. I will think about it though and get it checked, to make sure.