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cam chain tensioners
- 81kz550b2
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txturbo wrote:
The 550 tensioner is slightly different. It doesn't have the little side bolt like on the 750's.
Yeah, should have mentioned like Bill did, synchronizing the carbs will go a very long way to quieting down the cam chain rattle and the primary chain slap (louder clunking down low in the motor, usually loud when idling cold).
Primary chain slack is a nice thought as well. I changed a primary chain once on a 750, but that one was "slipping". When accelerating hard from relatively low revs you could hear it slipping over the sprockets. No one really believed the primary chain could be worn out, but eventually it turned out it was. I took it apart and the chain really was way too long for the sprockets. There could be a stage prior to that in which it rattles a lot in a cold engine...I shall make a ride this weekend I guess to see if it gets better with a warm engine.
1981 kz550b2
1984 kz750E (Turbo)
1989 GPz1000RX (Burnt down on the German Autobahn...)
Enschede
Netherlands
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- bill_wilcox100
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On my bike, I noticed a day-and-night difference between the Mechanical sync method and the Vacuum Gauge sync method... buts that's my bike...
Or maybe my Mechanical syncing sucks big lemons. :laugh:
Best of success.
Bill
PS
BTW, any chance you can add your year, model and location to your signature... it's considered real friendly and a member near you may be available for help.
Bill
1977 KZ650-B1 (Stock)
Upgrades:
- Dyna S Electronic Ignition (DS2-2)
- Dyna 3 Ohm Coils (DC1-1)
- Coil Repowering Mod
- Progressive Springs Front & Rear
- Saddlemen Seat Cover
- New Metallic Red Re-Paint & Repro Badges.
Montreal, Canada
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- YUKABODOS
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- TeK9iNe
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- What did you do!?!
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PS
Got access to vacuum gauges?
Bill
got a set yes, but I don't believe this is the problem. I know this bike quite well and would be surprised if the carbs are way out of sync. Unless the bike is very sensitive to the slightest unsynchronisation I don't think this is it it. I will think about it though and get it checked, to make sure.
These bikes are quite sensitive to vacuum differences, especially from engine age (wear and tear/minor compression changes).
If you have vacuum gauges, its really easy to do and theres lots of info here in the filebase. Strongly recommended!
Fer damn sure homes.I have an idea, why not adjust the cam chain AND sync the carbs.
Yeah and mechanical syncing does suck. Its just a prep for vacuum synching.
I approve this message.
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- 81kz550b2
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PS
BTW, any chance you can add your year, model and location to your signature... it's considered real friendly and a member near you may be available for help.
Bill
I will pimp my profile See if I can get some pics on here as well.
Cheers!
Dirk
1981 kz550b2
1984 kz750E (Turbo)
1989 GPz1000RX (Burnt down on the German Autobahn...)
Enschede
Netherlands
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- BCbikes
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1980 kz550a
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- martin_csr
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In general, you're supposed to turn in the tensioner by hand until hard to turn, then back it out ~1/4 turn or so, then tighten the locknut. I would probably loosen it first, then do the adjustment as per the instructions.
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- zukdave
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1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
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