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Better street engine set up for cooling.......and
- School Teacher
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1st i mean cooling and streetability
2nd i mean power/torque
this would both have 435 cams, 33mm smoothbores, welded crank, basck cut tranny with and oilcooler.
1326 with a big block and turbo pistons
OR
1261 with 10.5 pistons and a stock block(resleeved of course)
1976 kz900 in parts but will be going some day soon
1980 kz1000G1
1976 kz900 parts bike
1979 kz1000 shaftie parts bike
1978 kz1000 33mm smoothies 1075 kit
Troutdale Oregon USA
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- will61310
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...1980 LTD 1000...
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- Old Man Rock
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I see you live in Oregon and with a cooler may be ok...
Those displacements are still going to generate some heat with out a doubt....
As for non big block, pushing the limits no doubt...
Guys like Plummen, Timebomb and a few others would be better suited to answer the street ability question...
In either configuration, HANG ON for that old girl is going to fly! :blink: thus poopy pants! :woohoo:
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Old Man Rock
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Reason I mentioned Oregon, cooler than Arizona in the summer.... Thus cool air flow over the engine while riding....
In my discussions with some others, they keep saying "go bigger on the next build OMR".... I reply, I do have to keep the heat index in mind for it just won't cut the mustard out here....
Too FREAKING hot... Example, yesterday was 115*F, today a mild 113*F :blink: :pinch: :whistle:
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- bountyhunter
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Waita few years, maybe not. Climate change is cranking the temp up on the west coast. 95 today here in San Jose and the heat is set to burn for at least a week. Our weather now toggles between about 10 degrees below normal to about ten degrees above normal, with rain and lightning thrown in at random (had that two days ago). It's like I moved back to Louisiana.arrrrggggghhhhh.... EDIT:
Reason I mentioned Oregon, cooler than Arizona in the summer....
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- otakar
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is it better and when i say better i mean two different things:
1st i mean cooling and streetability
2nd i mean power/torque
this would both have 435 cams, 33mm smoothbores, welded crank, basck cut tranny with and oilcooler.
1326 with a big block and turbo pistons
OR
1261 with 10.5 pistons and a stock block(resleeved of course)
I would do more research about the 435 cams and the turbo pistons. With the overlap on such big cams, the turbo pistons may not work right. Every time you see specs from a cam manufacturer, they say that high compression pistons are required. Just going by what I was told by Web-Cam.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- otakar
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ive allready discussed the 9:1 bigblock motor idea with Larry C,it might happen before this winter for my 1327 bike. my idea was a 1327 motor with a 900 crank and a set of turbo pistons with the cylinder milled just a little to bring it up to around 9:1 which would be a perfect pump gas motor with a decent head some mid level cams and a rack of 34 flatslides,just right for adding a nitrous bottle im thinking.it could also be updated to a turbo really easy if need be :evil: this combination would also be good on a stock block 1197 which would run a little cooler on the streets depending on where you live
I concur about the 1197 idea. as Larry would agree, The size is not as important as the breathing. A GPz1100 head with a 1200 motor will do a lot more than a earlier head and a 1300 motor. The bigger motor will give you a bit more for the first few seconds but top end, but a well ported GPz head and the 1200 motor will walk away from you top end. I'm going with an 1150 and a good port job. It makes every day riding more pleasurable. i know it from my old Z1R, when i got stopped at a light for 2-3 minutes. The bike got so hot that it would usually dye when it was time to go on green.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- otakar
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i definately would run much smaller cams 380-410 range
Once again I would strongly concur. Pre-81 head 380 J head can go either way, and a GPz head 410.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- otakar
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74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- bountyhunter
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I was wondering if it was my imagination that the forum ever had an edit feature. At my age, you never know....I hate this new system where you can't go back and correct the type-Os. This really sucks.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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