kz 900 alternator rotor end crank shaft taper.

Dawg nabbit Woody..........your a sharp tack. Nice "adress" there.:laugh: Crank ends are different as are rotors and stator. Not to mention the stator cover also.

hello, can you please tell me exactly what is different about the two cranks ends. thanks, marc....

hello, please tell me the difference between the two crank tapers. thanks, marc...

Ben. This may be wrong/worthless, but my thoughts.... There were changes made every couple years on 900/1000 stators and again w/1100's. with 1100's using smaller dia stators. and probly narrower as well. I would guess that 1100's had shorter noses at crank and different taper distances and angles. stators,logically would have different demisions, and their covers by same logic have differnt deminsions. I'm no expert, but would start comparing there. luck G

It is a frustrating conversion to switch stator/alternators between that year and the 80. The crank is different altogether on the MKII. It has a wider end and requires a larger bolt on the larger cranks. I have a 78Z1r that I tried to switch to a 76 Z1 dynamo. No key slot on the Z1R because of the heavier crank. Check the inside portion of the dynamo and make sure that it is not bored out beyond tolerance. My Z1R dynamo let loose and sheered out the inside and replacing it was quite a task. The only conversion that I have been made aware of from 80 to 76 requires a great deal of crank modification.

benjamin wrote:

hello, please tell me the difference between the two crank tapers. thanks, marc...

1978z1r wrote:

It is a frustrating conversion to switch stator/alternators between that year and the 80. The crank is different altogether on the MKII. It has a wider end and requires a larger bolt on the larger cranks. I have a 78Z1r that I tried to switch to a 76 Z1 dynamo. No key slot on the Z1R because of the heavier crank. Check the inside portion of the dynamo and make sure that it is not bored out beyond tolerance. My Z1R dynamo let loose and sheered out the inside and replacing it was quite a task. The only conversion that I have been made aware of from 80 to 76 requires a great deal of crank modification.

So now that you're more acquainted with the differences in the Crankshafts, etc, etc.. What was the course of action?

i havent checked the serial numbers on both of the motors, but...... the motor on the 76 900 has the early style of alt, woodruf keyed crank, the motor that i pulled out of the 80 1000 also has the early style of alt, woodruf keyed crank. i used everything off the 1000 motor and was tightening the bolt too tight and snapping them. upon getting the correct torque value, the bolt was happy and the case cover went back on. since, i have run the bike and have found that the charging voltage is at 16.5 to 17 volts. i dont have a service manual for this year yet so i dont know the procedure for testing the voltage regulator. i am still having problems with the ignition switch as well. the bike has a four pin connector and the ignition switch is a six pin. people have told me that they have used six pin switches on four pin harness with no problem. maybe i have a bad switch? does the voltage regulator have to have a grounded case. i had to relocate it to the plastic rear fender due to other components that needed to be mounted. any help is appreciated. marc.....