re-torquing head

My feeling is that if you loosen all the nuts at the same time, you are asking for a bigger leak. I would suggest leaving everthing tight and then do just one nut at a time. I started in the center and went in sequence. Don't forget about the small bolts in the center if you have them on yours. Seems like they take a 10mm wrench. I just did those last. Can't guarantee you that this will stop your oil leak, but it is easier than replacing the head and base gasket if it does.

Robert

I thought my head gasket was leaking, just turned out to be the tach cable seal. 3 dollar part! At speed the oil goes everywhere and you have a hard time telling where the leak is at. A quick question for the experts, does it hurt anything to pressure wash the front end of the engine? will this mess up your gaskets somehow? Thanks!

Pro, personal opinion. don't use pressure washer on chain, or pods. any where else, will do no damage and possibly be dio-tool. IE; where searching oil leaks, a clean dry surface treated w/baby powder or a powder based anti persperant spray usually locates problem., Running prob's wet can be leaking plug caps/wires/misc wiring probs. better to find in the garage than on the road. my 2 cents G

mark1122 wrote:

It is possible to get oil from under the head nuts as well. They have copper crush washers, under them to help seal them..
U loosen the nuts a 1/4 turn , 1 at a time, to relieve stress and retighten. this give a more accurate torque.
i remove then 1 at a time and apply some high heat silicone under the nut and washer,to help seal them, just in case. I hate leaks.
The silicone acts as a lubricant and reduces friction during the torque. this give a more accurate torque .
But i like to go overbored sometimes too.

need to be careful on this, some specs are wet and some are dry if the spec was dry and you lube the threads you could over torque and strip out something. I assume its its dry unless specifically listed as wet or lubed.

dman

That is a good point. i have never had an issue as yet though.
Have u ever read a % dif from dry to wet?

need to be careful on this, some specs are wet and some are dry if the spec was dry and you lube the threads you could over torque and strip out something. I assume its its dry unless specifically listed as wet or lubed.

dman

exactly. Especially since all of the bolts are grade 2 and will stretch badly as it is.

I think that using locktight qualifies as a lube, doesnt it. the aluminum motor is softer than any bolt it holds.
i have never stripped a bolt.i have of course stripped a hole thread. but only the usual ones that everyone stripps, like the cam caps.