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re-torquing head
- alexgehrig
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I've got an 80 kz650 with 13k leaking oil from what appears to be both the head gasket (front of engine) and base gasket (#1 cylinder area).
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- Patton
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Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- alexgehrig
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THoughts?
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- Patton
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Could clean engine and get it completely dry, then spray foot powder around the potential leak areas, start the engine and watch closely to find exact source of leak.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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One other point - to loosen or not to loosen. I've seen some folks say they just set the wrench and tightened and others have loosened (1/4 turn) and then re-tightened.
THoughts?
Can't really explain why, but I like to first just set the wrench and attempt to tighten. Then when it doesn't move, loosen it the 1/4 inch and re-torque.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- TeK9iNe
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- What did you do!?!
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Its apparently the oly way to achieve the higher torque setting.
Whatever works.
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- GPz550D1
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I've seen a few discussions here and there, just wondering what results people have seen with re-torquing head nuts to slow/stop leaks.
I've got an 80 kz650 with 13k leaking oil from what appears to be both the head gasket (front of engine) and base gasket (#1 cylinder area).
I have a '81 Gpz550 that was leaking oil towards the center of the engine. Tried to re-torque head nuts and they were all tight. Then I marked the nuts location in relation to the head and loosened each nut 1/4 turn and then torqued to specification. Each nut tightened down 1/8 to 1/4 more of a turn compared to where they were originally. I don't see how the head gasket hadn't blown before this. Oil leak has stopped for the moment and hopefully for a long time. This was done several years ago and my bike has 21,000 miles on it now.
Robert
1981 KZ550-D1
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- 650ed
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Did you loosen all nuts 1/4 turn first before re-torquing or did you loosen and re-torque each nut one at a time?
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- GPz550D1
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GPz550D1 wrote: "Then I marked the nuts location in relation to the head and loosened each nut 1/4 turn and then torqued to specification."
Did you loosen all nuts 1/4 turn first before re-torquing or did you loosen and re-torque each nut one at a time?
I did them one at a time, following the torque sequence that the manual calls for.
1981 KZ550-D1
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- alexgehrig
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My instinct tells me to loosen everything 1/4 as you would if you were removing the head (following proper sequence)and then tighten accordingly.
Thoughts (anyone)?
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- bountyhunter
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1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- mark1122
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- Keep twisting it
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U loosen the nuts a 1/4 turn , 1 at a time, to relieve stress and retighten. this give a more accurate torque.
i remove then 1 at a time and apply some high heat silicone under the nut and washer,to help seal them, just in case. I hate leaks.
The silicone acts as a lubricant and reduces friction during the torque. this give a more accurate torque .
But i like to go overbored sometimes too.
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
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