82 kz1000p wont start after top end rebuild

ive been very cautious with changing things like pin count and timing, checking by turning over the engine by hand several times bofore hitting the starter.

counted 44 pins

Granted, I don't have the manual on this police bike since this is a KZ1000 motor of sorts....
With that in mind, are you sure about this number of 44?

All manuals for the KZ900/1000 I have depict a tooth count of 28... With the exhaust cam mark parallel to the decking, count 1 up from this then 28 over to the intake cam.... See image....

You need to verify this before trying to start the bike again.... I can be wrong here...

As for the coils, if connected backwards it will start and pop and run like crap but would start just the same with everything else in working order...

OMR

jswag5 wrote:

... cant get my new kz1000 started... timing is ok, i set the "T" mark on the crank up towards the mark....

Hello swag5 and WELCOME to KZR!
We're glad you're here!

If by chance referring to ignition timing, the F mark should align with permanent case mark.
F = Fire.

Ignore the T mark when setting ignition timing.
T = Top Dead Center (TDC).

Good Luck!

This info is taken from a kawi service manual for a 1981-83 kz1000/kz1100. It specifies in the book for a
model j, k, m. So you should verify this info for applicability before using it.

thanks for all the info, im about one toothe behind the f mark right now, so maybe one more tooth forward and it'll start, everybody was telling me to use the t mark, but i will try the f mark later tonight or tomorrow, thanks for all the photos and ideas!

Patton is talking about ignition timeing with the F mark. NOT CAM timming. cam timing is done with the T mark.

still nothing but a lot of popping out the intake and exhaust, beginning to wonder if the 44 pins is correct in the police model engines, got my book on order, hope it comes tomorrow, i want to ride, its been three weeks almost since my bike has been on the road, im used to riding to work 2-3 times a week.

My Clymer manual is for "1000 & 1100cc Fours - 1981-1985" and doesn't distinguish between any of the models in the cam installation section. It says to turn the crankshaft until the T mark next to the No. 1 and No. 4 F mark aligns with the fixed pointer and then to count 44 pins, starting with the one the EX arrow points to as pin zero. So it sounds like you're using the right number of pins. The T mark is the small hash mark just to the right of the actual T, not the T itself, if that helps.

Also, the IN arrow should also be lined up with the cylinder head surface if you count the pins correctly, as you mentioned above.

I would double check all valve clearances and check cold compression on all cylinders just to make sure there are no bent valves.

Check static ignition timing again.

Check plugs to verify fuel is present when cranking.

ok, got my book today and it just reassures me that i have everything correct, except the carbs, so when i get some time i guess the carbs will get the next attention, my manual says to start with the adjustment screws out 1 and 1/4 turns and i started at 2and 1/2,maybe im just flooding the thing out terrible, if only i could get so lucky.

still nothing but a lot of popping out the intake and exhaust

Maybe I missed it so wll ask anyways....
Are you 100% positive that the cylinder/ignition plate wiring to coils aren't reversed?

Meaning ignition plate 1 & 4 wiring conductors are going to the coil/spark plugs for 2 & 3.... and vice versa...

ITS ALIVE!!!!!

according to the book my fuel mixture screws were set out too far, i set them to the specs in the book and vroom!!!!

the bad news is when i stopped working on the bike the other day i left the petcock on pri and filled the crankcase with about a gallon of fuel, so its draining right now so that i dont damage anything.