Valve Clearance Check Questions...

Why use the 17mm crank nut instead of the kick start lever to rotate the engine? And,why pull the plugs?(other than for compression release)

You can use the kickstart if you want and don't have to pull the plugs, but the advantage is by having no plugs/no compression it's easier to turn over the engine to check clearances and the 17mm ratchet gives a little better control of turning than pushing on the kick lever. Either way will work.

RonKZ650 wrote:

You can use the kickstart if you want and don't have to pull the plugs, but the advantage is by having no plugs/no compression it's easier to turn over the engine to check clearances and the 17mm ratchet gives a little better control of turning than pushing on the kick lever. Either way will work.

Right on, Thanks for the response Ron!By the way,that red"650" in the avatar looks amazingly like my 1000:P

Question, how would you kick this over while looking through the advancer window for your timing marks (T & F)....

Unless you can bend like a pretzel or are amazingly strong where turning the kick starter by hand/arm, this would be extremely difficlut for any degree of accuarcy...

Now if you can bend like a pretzel, you have a sister who's single & available? :laugh:

OMR

Old Man Rock wrote:

Question, how would you kick this over while looking through the advancer window for your timing marks (T & F)....

Unless you can bend like a pretzel or are amazingly strong where turning the kick starter by hand/arm, this would be extremely difficlut for any degree of accuarcy...

Now if you can bend like a pretzel, you have a sister who's single & available? :laugh:

OMR

Easy there big guy!The valve cover is off.I simply watch the cam lobes while I gently rotate the engine via the tool kit kick start lever.Am I wrong in disreguarding timing marks and just sight orienting by cam lobe position?PS.I stand next to the bike and apply force to the kick start lever with my arm.

It actually depends on which shim changing tool you use. With the genuine Kawasaki tool you must use the wrench on the end of the crank - this is because you have to turn the engine backwards when removing their tool.

Jeff.Saunders wrote:

It actually depends on which shim changing tool you use. With the genuine Kawasaki tool you must use the wrench on the end of the crank - this is because you have to turn the engine backwards when removing their tool.

Roger that!Thanks for the response Jeff.Im just getting a check done right now so Ill have an idea of what size shims(if any are needed)to order along with a pair of 40mm fork seals for an 80,KZ1000ST

Ron's red bike in his avatar is one of his kz1000s, an ST too I believe.

Yea that's my beloved ST in the avatar. I've got to many motorcycles. 4 KZ650, 2 KZ1000, an old H2 and 2 Honda Goldwings. Can never have too many motorcycles I guess.:laugh:

Am I wrong in disreguarding timing marks and just sight orienting by cam lobe position

No not necessarily but for me, I prefer insurance thus making sure I'm dead nuts, alignment markings...

Example, Shims came out within Kawi specification .05 to .10mm.... In speaking with Larry Cavanaugh, shoot for .04 to .06mm clearance.... Good enough for me....

I ended up with the following, tight toloerance... To insure I was obtaining the same measurement locations, thus markings were a method for same measurements, thus insuring so....

Valve Lifter Clearance:
Intake # 1 # 2 # 3 # 4
.05mm .04mm .05mm .05mm

Exhaust # 1 # 2 # 3 # 4
.05mm .05mm .05mm .05mm

I get anal about such details... Drives Plummen, SUK-man and Larry C crazy.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: but they do like the fact that I'm paying attention to detail.... A little too much at times but the results have been well received...

Back to the subject matter.... Required, probably not but hey, my bike and I want it dead nuts on the money for as expressed in other postings, close enough doesn't work for me.. If/where I can be dead on I do it, no other way will work or be good enough....

OMR

Hi Ron!Yeah shes a beauty too! Ive got the black and silver version,I love these bikes! I didnt realize what I was"settling"for when I bought this thing,because I was looking for a 900 or a chain drive 1000 and kept getting beat on ebay.God smiled on me and I found mine three blocks away!Thanks for the response! OMR!Hi Mr!Details are what gives us "CATS" balance! These KZ1000s have a tollerance range of .05-.15mm.Heres my reads.Exhaust;(#1-.05)(#2-.05)(#3-.04)(#4-.14)Intake;(#1-.06)(#2-.10)(#3-.12)(#4-.05)Now I need to calculate what size shims to order from Jeff,right? And Ron,I meant to mention,my ST had a gray factory seat cover!Have you ever seen or heard of any other seat colors other than black?

Seats only came in black, so grey wasn't from Kawasaki. There was lots of things added right at the dealer or shortly thereafter, and many things thought original were not. I had to do a little more work to get my ST. I bought it on ebay and had to drive 2400 miles to get it. I left after work friday and was back in time to sleep and go to work monday morning. It was worth the effort too.
Thanks and good luck,