can valves mimic elec trble??

thanks...i'm goona go over there now and see if while running i can get it to sputter by moving wires..look in the head light and maybe r& r the harness...thanks craig

For what it is worth I had similar problems on my 79 and it would do it when it got hot. I checked my fuse box and the plastics was melted. All the while I thought it was dirty carbs or etc. and it was that box. If you feel the box when the bike is running and it is really hot then for sure I would suspect that. The main wire and I believe it was white going through the fuse box and after it was white with a red stripe.

Exactly what wireman said. I changed the wires for the battery connection and voila my starter that I thought was bad started working fine and then it was ultimately that fuse box and finally it melted the wires one hot day riding all day long and the fuse burned out and I had a fun time trying to find those short fuses to make it work so I could get back home. I used another smaller fuse to get to the auto parts store and it worked just long enough to get me there.
After 30 years they can get corroded and make the path of resistance much higher causing many problems. If the box is bad I would replace it with the newer type fuse boxes and that will help out greatly with the heat issue. I hope you get it fixed. Can't wait to meet up in Cali this July to do some riding and watching the races. I got three guys with kaws possibly one more guy who is older who is on this site Cro Dog you should check out his ride. It looks better than new bikes look. The ignition switch if it is loose can make things go bad too. I remember my 69 mustang parking lights and dash lights never worked and had funny issues with the dome lights etc and when I changed out the ignition switch it all came back and worked like a charm. I hope you find it and don't go crazy doing so.

saxjonz wrote:

Exactly what wireman said.

:ohmy: :ohmy: :whistle:

trianglelaguna wrote:

my 76kz900 has a white wire ubder the right side cover that used to work half free and cuase stuttering and eventually the bike would die and not re-start... i fixed it a while back and know it is a suspect so i checked it again it is secure... i have a stuttering problem that i can rev down or up and get to clear out...allmost like i'm losing a cyl or two,,,on and off....I cleaned the 29's today , removed all the brass items in the bowls ,and they're still in good shape,cleaned reassembled,set mix screws at 3/8 turn out from lightly seated,,lubed the ignition advace, re-set the timing with a strobe timing gun,dyna s,checked the harness for the wiggly wire prob,re-charged my batterry -trickle- over night,new plugs & set gaps,and still my bike is coughing and stuttering ...but not popping or back firing thru the carbs...allthough it will hicup once in a while.....sunday i guess i'm gonna check valves????.. dyna failing?????...any ideas guys....thanks craig

3/8 turn out from seated?im no carbonator expert but ive always gone between 1 1/4- 1 1/2 as a starting point.

hey i missed that little bit of info that might be a place to look as well they should be around 1 1/2 turns out to start with

timebomb33 wrote:

hey i missed that little bit of info that might be a place to look as well they should be around 1 1/2 turns out to start with

did not get over there today..went with some friends to that place on the wharf for fish and chips.. and walked downtown monterey,,,the presido,,,the piers after in a light rain...
but on the drive there and back...listening to Rick Dencko....i kept think about the wiring and what george and tmbmb33 said... and others....i think IT IS in the wires,battery conects,switchs,or in the hd-light somrwhere by the way it was cutting on to some cyl..but not shutting down ....thanks for all the feedback..........
i am gonna have a rain out for my pt sur tour tomorrow and am gonna find that problem....some times feedback and removing myself from the problem and walking thru it in my head a bit helps...thanks guys i'll post what happened tomorrow..peace craig

so i pulled the bike out and ran it with a gas line extender so i could wiggle wires...it was still popping....i took may harness off and snipped all the zip ties and discovered that a plug wire had worked free from the coil but the rubber wire to coil boot was mimicing being still plugged in/the wire had slid back in the boot and the brass crimp end where it sits in the dyna coil was corroded like a green penny...i fixed that ...fixed the air mix screws to 1 1/2 turns out from seated and rechecked my harness connections...re-checked my timing with a timing light...it is running better...its raining so i did three or four passes up the street and it only sputtered a millasec on the last pass(of course).....
i'm posting a pic(not my porsche carrera 4s allthough i wish it was).....
i alos am gonna post another reply with a part i.d
and a coil question...next entry....

anyone know what this is...no luaghing at me...i really don't know...have a guess though...never seen one...

second question...
my green dyna coils were bought second hand/new in box...i got some auto wires and had to make em up then install em on the coils....my coils face up under the tank and the dyna wire weels face at an angle ,but,,,tight to the frames main center spine...the boots barely fiot in there and don't have a psoitive snap into the coils they just kinda suckerfish onto the coils and i was never happy with how tight it all is.....aside from running the coils on the frame above the exhuast does anyone know any wire manufactures or better any tricks to keep the coil end of the wire snugged into the coils...???thanks guys craig....

wish it did not gimme that little mini sputter makes me think the gremlin is still alive...we'll see

bump???any i.d help on that previous part or coil wire securing would be great....thanks....

I use Dyna plug wires which come with the cap grips aready in place and correct pinch clips for attaching before inserting into the coils. These clips fit nice and snug into the green Dyna coils.

The Dyna wires are inexpensive and available at Z1E in different colors. I'm very satisfied with the 7mm metal core plug wires. Here's a pic from Z1E.



The green Dyna coil primary terminal screw head is situated very close to the spacer on the coil attachment bolt. Sometimes it can short out against the spacer and prevent proper coil performance.

Plenty of different methods to insulate the screw head from the spacer. I use a couple of small nylon tie wraps pulled tightly next to each other around each spacer. The tie wraps can't go anywhere or fall out of place, and serve well in their role as little insulators.

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

I use Dyna plug wires which come with the cap grips aready in place and correct pinch clips for attaching before inserting into the coils. These clips fit nice and snug into the green Dyna coils.

The Dyna wires are inexpensive and available at Z1E in different colors. I'm very satisfied with the 7mm metal core plug wires. Here's a pic from Z1E.

The green Dyna coil primary terminal screw head is situated very close to the spacer on the coil attachment bolt. Sometimes it can short out against the spacer and prevent proper coil performance.

Plenty of different methods to insulate the screw head from the spacer. I use a couple of small nylon tie wraps pulled tightly next to each other around each spacer. The tie wraps can't go anywhere or fall out of place, and serve well in their role as little insulators.

Good Luck!

thanks patton i'm gonna switch to those wires and insulate my coil mount posts...that is another thing i noticed today and i tapped on a flat head screwdriver to re-space it a lttle.....my problem must be in that area ....thanks again....any one know what that unit in my previous picture is.....i think the p.o wired it in and i dont know what it is???????