Need help with KZ1000 police special clutch issue.

I know this is an old thread, but this is for the information of anyone else out there that's been ready to hit their bike with a baseball bat.

Today i replaced the little oil seal that surrounds the clutch release rod. Had oil pouring out when the bike was running.

Long story short - ended up having to adjust the clutch.

Factory manual says to "turn fully clockwise then back off 1/4 turn".

NOT SO ON MY BIKE.

Completely the opposite. Turn Counter Clockwise then back off 1/4 of a turn. Doing it the way the book says makes it so there's no pressure at all at the lever when you depress it. I thought I was going mad till I threw the book away and did what I thought was logical after looking at the ball bearing mechanism.

Hope this helps others that have a similar problem. My bike is an 82 KZ1000 LTD.

(Actually the factory manual is pretty good - I just wish it had told me I might have the mechanism that requires Counter Clockwise turning). :blink:

Peter

Clutch Cable Replacement On Some Kawasaki Motorcycles
With Proper Mechanism Adjustments

1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8. While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES, or any wires from the alternator), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9. Check the lock washer for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10 Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged (in the adjustment mechanism)and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut. On some Kawasaki’s, the adjustment will turn the opposite way, so keep this in mind.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.