Need help with KZ1000 police special clutch issue.

Need some help with this one, please. I have a 2000 KZ1000 police special that I'm working on. I bought a new clutch cable because I thought the old one was stretched out. I compared the two before installing the new one. To my surprise they were the same length, but I installed the new one anyways.
Followed the procedures exactly in Clymers manual, pull the clutch lever in and had all the slack in the world. This was happening with the old cable, so it wasn't the cable giving me the trouble. The clutch release parts all fit together perfectly as I put the cover back on. Any ideas from you mechanically savvy folks?

OldHippie

did you adjust it at the cover,the center adjuster and the bars?

yep. Adjust screw counter-clock-wise until it became hard to turn, tightened nut and adjusted at front of engine and at clutch lever.

how much play do you have and how does the clutch act?maybe time to measure your springs and plates while youre in there.

When I pull in the Clutch lever it hits the handlebar grip. Clutch does seem to engage. What are the specs for the plates and springs?

yours is a j series motor im guessing,i dont have a manual for your model

The 82 GPz1100 has the same type of clutch so it should adjust the same.

From My motorcycle service manual:

"Loosen the locknut, and turn the clutch release adjusting screw Counterclockwise until it becomes hard to turn."

"Turn the adjusting screw Clockwise 1/4 turn from that point, and tighten the locknut with out changing the adjusting screw position."

The above should be accomplished after all excess slack is taken out of the cable by using the adjustment mid point in the clutch cable and at the clutch lever adjustment area.

When you turn the clutch release adjusting screw counterclockwise, does it move in or out? You want it to move in towards the engine = reducing slack.

On 1981 chain drive and all the shaft drive models the adjuster screw should be turned clockwise until hard to turn, then backed off a 1/4 turn, you may have an unoriginal cover/release mechanism (or one of the infamous Clymer manual errors).

If the adjusting screw does indeed move in when turned ccw I'm stumped...

OldHippie wrote:

yep. Adjust screw counter-clock-wise until it became hard to turn, tightened nut and adjusted at front of engine and at clutch lever.

If that is the throw-out actuator, you are supposed to tighten it until you feel resistance then turn the other direction at least 1/4 turn. You can't have tension on it.

OnkelB wrote:

On 1981 chain drive and all the shaft drive models the adjuster screw should be turned clockwise until hard to turn, then backed off a 1/4 turn, you may have an unoriginal cover/release mechanism (or one of the infamous Clymer manual errors).

If the adjusting screw does indeed move in when turned ccw I'm stumped...

I take it Clymer is known for mis-information?

OldHippie wrote:

I take it Clymer is known for mis-information?

Well, not misinformation as such but I've come across a few errors in both the Clymers I have - diagrams being wrong, incorrect torque specs, rubber dampers mounted upside down, stuff like that.

OldHippie wrote:

OnkelB wrote:

On 1981 chain drive and all the shaft drive models the adjuster screw should be turned clockwise until hard to turn, then backed off a 1/4 turn, you may have an unoriginal cover/release mechanism (or one of the infamous Clymer manual errors).

If the adjusting screw does indeed move in when turned ccw I'm stumped...

I take it Clymer is known for mis-information?

i have a stack of them i use to boost myself when i need to Clymer to the top shelve to find a shop manual !get it,clymer? i kill me,im here all week folks! :laugh: