KZ650 hop up parts vendor?

I believe Lorcan runs Carillo rods in his 250 rwhp 810 Turbo, but I seem to recall them costing ~$600 a set.

I took a chance and paid $200 for a 750 motor with a knock in the lower end, motor was said to have run 9.90's in the quarter so I figured it must have something in it.

It did:

Almost new 810 kit
Andrews cams
Professionally ported head
Dyna Ignition


I was a little skeptical of 9.90's with a KZ750 based motor so I talked to a guy that races on the East Coast. He told me about a KZ750 based motor there that is running 9.60's with a 280 lb rider.

According to a web based calculator, 9.6 ET with a 280 lb rider and 400 lb bike requires 126 RWHP.

Hmm, that means I should be able to get the 750 Turbo in the low tens/high nines, Have to try that next season

77_650B1 wrote:

Haha thats what I was thinking, he's gonna have a rough time pressing that cast iron crank apart! :silly:

Where have you been steve? I was thinking your expertise could be used in a couple of these threads haha.

Yes, but they are custom order. Would run $1295.00

Skinthead wrote:

The furnace is easy. Look for a 5 gallon steel paint bucket, and then find a clay flower pot at Home depot that will drop into it. Youc an mix up refractory cement (furnace liner clay and portland cement), and fill in the bottom and sides so the pot sits at the top of the bucket. The lid is the hard part, but nothing terrible there either.

lots of info on the net on home foundry work. READ alot before you try this stuff at home. A screwup can be painfully disastrous or deadly.

I will take some time with a friends mill to work up the casting models in wood for the adapters, and cast them all at once. Just a little finish work to get them usable from there.

I save junk engine parts, pistons, junk lawn mowers, and any unsellable part of aluminum I take off other bikes I have and stash them away. Currently something like 200+lbs of aluminum waiting to be melted down for ingots. once I have some good clean stock to work with I will be casting several pieces i need for the bike. Planning to work up the rear sets in wood and casting them too.

If you want to get into casting stuff on the cheap take a look at www.lindsaybks.com and order a catalog of books. I bought the gingery machine shop series from them some time ago, and that is where I got started. There is nothign to it.....

Skint

cool stuff there!i think im gonna order the babbit bearing book,ive got some model A and oakland motors i can practice on.

Skint, the casting stuff looks ok, but I stumbled across a guy's site where he sells his own books about casting too. He had a section there where he was making a Gingery lathe, and while I commend his skill, that thing cant be too accurate. I know a lathe doesn't have to be accurate since it's just spinning, but how do you know how much you're cutting off? I'll stick with real lathes thanks haha.

Thanks for the info, I'll probably make one of these flower pot furnaces next summer, I want to cast a couple things. Also, do you get good surface finish on your stuff? That guy I was talking about gets horrible finish on his aluminum parts, and very non-uniform cooling. It doesn't even look like his molds fill all the way, but I dont think he uses risers, that could explain it. He must have to pour real slow with no risers in his molds. I think proper mold design would be the downfall of the home caster. They do a mold, and it looks like it works fine, so they dont look into it further.

The site you looked up was backyard metalcasting I believe, and that guy was a high school kid when he put that site together. I don't think he even maintains it anymore.

Get the gingery books from www.lindsaybks.com . The lathe can be adjusted to be accurate to within about .0001 depending on how much fudging around with it you want to do. The book explains it all.

Surface finish is determined by a few things, but mostly temp at pour, and the fine-ness of the sand used in the mold. The finer the sand the better the surface finish. Venting of the mold and water content of the mold sand will have some affect, and that comes with trial and error. It doesn't take long to get it figured out. I personally oversprue my molds when I cast anything to make sure there is sufficient metal in the pour to assure proper filling of the cavity. I can always remelt the sprues later...

How strong are the stock connecting rods in these engines? I can spend the 600 for the carrillos if need be, but.....

Skint

steell wrote:

I believe Lorcan runs Carillo rods in his 250 rwhp 810 Turbo, but I seem to recall them costing ~$600 a set.

Stock 750 turbo rods in mine...

Lorcan wrote:

steell wrote:

I believe Lorcan runs Carillo rods in his 250 rwhp 810 Turbo, but I seem to recall them costing ~$600 a set.

Stock 750 turbo rods in mine...

Who runs the Carillo rods on 750turbo.com? I'm almost certain that's where I read it, but then I was sure it was Lorcan running them, so my memory is probably not to be trusted :blush:

Maybe Jeff with the sand dragster? I can't think of anyone off the top of my head.