Piston Ring Gap Spacing?

Anyone have any thoughts on the "correct" gap spacing for piston rings?

Assuming newly honed sleeves, new pistons & rings, all within spec and one piece oil ring. Should I space gaps at 180 degree, one ring to the next? 120 degrees? Should I keep the oil ring gap be at the back of the block or the front? Top ring any preferences?

Thoughts would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

180 sounds like a good margin of error.clean your cylinders real good with carb cleaner and wadded up toilet paper,sounds crazy but it really works and wont leave lint in cylinders like rags or paper towels.just keep cleaning untill you dont get anymore black trash on t.p install cylinder ,rings and pistons dry.goodluck,happy wrenching!:whistle:

I always coat the cylinders and dip the pistons in oil, provides lubrication on start up that way. I have always considered metal to metal contact a bad thing.
Of course a clean working environment is a must.

those first few times up and down are what help seat the rings,if you get oil in there you can glaze the rings and they wont seat right!:whistle:

From Hastings:

Parts such as pistons, rings, cylinder walls and bearings must have immediate lubrication to prevent scuffing, scoring and bearing damage.

Hastings

Assembling the piston and rings dry is not a good idea, rings will seat perfectly fine if assembled and run in correctly with proper lubrication. Take a look at a freshly bored and honed cylinder under a microscope or strong maginying glass and you will see lots of jagged edges, run a piston ring over that with no lube just tears up the ring. No ring manufacturer will tell you it's ok to assemble the motor without lubing the rings and pistons.

Post one link to a ring manufacturer or major engine builder that says to assemble the piston/rings and bore dry.

Thanks to all for the input re lubing.

Any other thoughts on the ring gap spacing? 180 degrees or 120 degrees from one ring to the next? Oil ring gap at the back of the block or the front?

Thanks.

Steel:my ol mans got this saying about dollars to donuts,ill bring the dollars ,you got the donuts?check out some of my posts and pictures ive posted.ive been involved with many very healthy motors automotive,marine and motorcycle i am not the greatest at everything but ive put enough 900 hp bigblock chevys together to know not oil the rings,ive also built some very healthy bike motors ,some a little too healthy :evil: for street use!anytime you want to have a motor buildoff,just let me know.im right here in little ol bellevue nebraska.:whistle: oh yeah,cam bearings ,cams,and lifters get assembly lube that a no brainer.

Post edited by: wireman, at: 2006/02/17 13:19

So, 1) What's the correct gap spacing? 2) Oiled or Dry?

Don't take my word for it, read it for yourself
www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_small_engines/...3693_2276450,00.html

www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm

www.detroitdiesel.com/Public/sp/18sp202.pdf

www.jepistons.com/pdf/piston_instrc4032.pdf

www.russellw.com/manuals/warner/top_overhaul.htm

utterpower.com/mondello.htm

Or you could just read the Factory Service Manual

I have ALWAYS dipped the rings in a small bowl of the same oil (brand , wt.) that I will be using in the engine before installing.For cast rings, let them soak for a short time, no kidding ,watch the air bubbles come out of them.
Make sure you know what is the top of the ring BEFORE you drop them in the oil. (its hard to see the little mark when they are dripping oil)
As for end gaps, I try to clock them at 1;30/4;30/7;30/10;30 ,,,, keep them away from the 90's and stagger them .

when this 1327 is done,ill do a leakdown test on my 1170 it was done early-mid 90s with no oil on the rings and then ill take pictures of the pistons and bores when i tear it apart.you pick the combination for a 900-1000 motor you put yours together the way you want and put it in a bike and ill build a motor with identicle parts but ill build it my way and stick it in a bike and well dyno both bikes,ive got a place here in omaha to dyno mine do a leak down test and compare horsepower numbers.you pick your parts and i will match them on my end!

Way to keep this thread on track, boys :whistle: I've heard 120 degrees is the correct offset of endgaps, but like to hear this confirmed...Anyone?