Teflon Wrist Pin Buttons

I've seen them for other applications, but not for KZs... Anybody have an opinion about how well they work or know where to find some?

Cheers!

your getting pretty high up there on the foodchain,what kind of motor are you building and whats in it?

Nothing special. Just an 81 KZ 1000 M1 (CSR). The teflon buttons just seem like a nice upgrade from the cerclips...

I am currently building a motor that I am using teflon buttons. The pistons I bought do not have grooves for circlips. MTC pistons in Coco,Fl. sells them individually or in sets for all different size bores. Most drag racers use them because there is no way they can spit out like a circlip can and have a wrist pin go into the side of the cylinder. Ride safe.........

They used to be the preferred choice for racers as they held the pins in place, but could be removed quickly. They can score the bore slightly over time. I ran them for several years in a bike (put 30,000 miles and many 1/4 mile passes on it) and it did mark the bore slightly.

It seems like many racers now use the spiral lock circlips rather than the buttons. Although I can tell you the spiral circlips are a pain to remove.

WHOA! Hold on there pardner! Use the piston pin retainers specified by the piston manufacturer. The pistons have a small channel groove for the retainer and if you use one the wrong diameter, it will fall out and your piston pin will come loose and you will have engine failure! The teflon buttons need to be milled / filed down some so they won't rub on your cylinder bore I think. The spiral things are difficult to install or remove and I have seen them move around (see comment about piston pin coming loose). I still like the plain ol' circlip deal Kaw used. Some piston manufacturers use a compression circlip and that works fine as well.

Like Jeff said, they are for racing when your pulling the motor apart alot. If its for a street bike i'd use the c-clips made for the pistons.

OK , here is the lowdown on this subject,IF you want your engine to live a long and happy life.(And dont we all)
Use ONLY what comes with your piston kit!
The pistons/pins/clips come as a matched set and work together as a set.
If they come with wire keepers use them ONLY .
If they come with spirolocks use them ONLY .
They are NOT interchangable .
And wrist pin buttons are just that , they fit in the pins NOT the pistons (tapered pins)and are for SHORT term EXTREME uses ie VERY highly mantained engines.

MDawnz1 wrote:

OK , here is the lowdown on this subject,IF you want your engine to live a long and happy life.(And dont we all)
Use ONLY what comes with your piston kit!
The pistons/pins/clips come as a matched set and work together as a set.
If they come with wire keepers use them ONLY .
If they come with spirolocks use them ONLY .
They are NOT interchangable .
And wrist pin buttons are just that , they fit in the pins NOT the pistons (tapered pins)and are for SHORT term EXTREME uses ie VERY highly mantained engines.

Teflon buttons fit in the piston bore, not the pin itself. They work fine in long term application. Regardless of what came with your pistons, you can safely use teflon bittons instead. The only exception to this is some of the newer forging designs use a real short pin and the pin bpres in the piston are not out ar the cylinder wall as the old style pistons ( sull skirt). With those styles you have to use the supplied clips.

Jay

Another question related to cerclips. Is it mandatory to replace them every time you remove and replace the pistons? My Clymer Manual says you should always use a new cerclip because the old one "...becomes weak in the process of removal..." Curious to know everybody's thoughts. I recently bought 8 new cerclips and installed them when I was re-assembling my top end. Then I discovered that I had a twisted crank, so had to remove the pistons again and am wondering if I should get new cerclips again. At least this time it will only be 4 because I knew which way the wrist pins came out easiest...

Cheers,

Maverick

one of mine has buttons and it will not hurt a dang thing in an everyday machine.

I don't know what the other guys are talking about when they say that you have to file on them and that they'll score the sleeves. I ran one set in my 1105 kit o the street for 39 years and 65,000 miles and when I took the motor apart for compression problems I found an out of round cylinder and bumped up to a 1135 kit but the liners did not have a mark on them from the buttons. Only the very center of the button rubs and teflon is not going to mar cast iron. Wiseco doesn't carry them anymore even though you'll see bigbore kits that include them. Redline Racing has them for $20 per cylinder but they have so many bad reviews and negative feedback that I wouldn't deal with them. MTC Engineering has them listed in a 4 year outdated online catalog so I don't know if they have them. Other sites list them but when you ad them to the cart they tell you they're out of stock. Pain in the butt to locate for some reason but it's the way to go in my opinion.