Compression test- Need Suggestions

If the timing advancer doesn't rotate when you hit the starter button, then the problem is with the starter clutch or the starter itself. I really need to dismantle a 750 four starter to verify that it has a reduction drive, as a ring gear rotating inside the starter would have the same effect.
The starter clutch on the 650/700/750 motors is inside the case on the secondary shaft, and it's a whole lot easier to get to if the motor is on the bench.

steell wrote:

Three things:

(1) The engine is not actually spinning, it's just the starter you hear.

(2) Your compression tester is not working.

(3) There are no pistons or rods inside the motor.

Personally, Id guess number one or two.

Not to make light of the problem,,, but (3) is way to funny,,,
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

I also agree with the rest of steell's post..

Post edited by: The Milkman, at: 2007/11/12 17:29

I decided to first turn the engine over manually and then try and elec starter. After I turned it over manually the engine definately started to crank and I could hear the air escaping from the spark plug holes..

I got the following compression reading
1: 95 2: 95 3: 40 4: 40

Even if I didnt get the correct readings there is a huge drop off on 3 and 4.

Could this just be a valve adjustment problem? or the pistons...? Where should I start? Looks like this will be an interesting project. I ulimately want to turn this into a cafe racer with 4 into 1. I have the 4 into 1 I just need to get this engine going.

Thanks!

Yeah option 3 would really suck... but I am sure it would get a lot of laughs... now we at least know that is not the problem.

First thing to do is a valve adjustment, although it may not help a lot it still needs to be done.

Second, if the engine has not been running in a long time, the rings may be stuck, so I'd dump some kind of penetrating oil down the spark plug holes and let it do it's thing for a few days.

Starter clutches often stick and cease working if the motor has not been started in a few months.

You could do a wet compression test (teaspoon of oil into each cylinder then test), but I'd try the penetrating oil first because you already know there's a problem.

Sweet thanks Steell!! I really appreciate your advice and suggestions.

So I should do the valve adjustment first and then carry on with the unsticking the rings? After the valve adjustment would I have to replace the head gasket right away or wait since I might have to get in there again?

THe starter motor clutch definately slips. I was turning the elec starter for the compression test last night and sometimes after a few turns the clutch slips and you can just hear the starter doing its thing. Then I can either wait until it unsticks itself or manually crank the engine a few times which seems to engage the clutch.

I finally ordered the Kawasaki factory manual so I think it will help a bunch more than the Haynes manual. Thanks again Steell

You can download the Factory Service manual HERE

It'd nice to have a paper manual at hand though

Why did you want to pull the head? If it is seeping oil, try and torque the head bolts to the proper torque first, sometimes that will fix the problem.

Ha thanks for the download steell. Last night on ebay I bought the factory manual on CD so that I can get it on my computer and print out what is needed. But had I known the download was free :pinch:

I sprayed the pentrating oil in each spark plug well until I could hear the level of the oil rising. will wait a few days before trying to crank the engine again.

I did notice that it seemed like the piston on the 4th cyl was further down than the rest of them??? or stuck?? I thought this because it took a bit more penetrating oil than the other wells to hear it filling up... if that makes any sense at all???

Could there be no piston rod in there? or would there have been ZERO compression on the cyl?

Thanks

1 and 4 go up and down at the same rate, and 2 & 3 do the same but 180 degrees out. When 1 and 4 are at the top, 2 and 3 are at the bottom.

Steell Wrote: "Why did you want to pull the head? If it is seeping oil, try and torque the head bolts to the proper torque first, sometimes that will fix the problem."

Maybe he means valve cover.

Post edited by: JimatMilkyWay, at: 2007/11/15 16:23

So the penetrating oil has been sitting in the cyl wells for about 4 days now. A question before I try starting it again to check the compression.

What is going to happen to the penetrating oil when I crank the engine? Since the exhaust pipes are off will the oil just come out of the exhaust holes in the engine? Or am I supposed to get the oil out somehow?

I thought that someone once suggested that I get a new gasket when I do the valve adjustments?? Am I thinking incorrectly? Thanks in advance for the help and I hope it all goes well tomorrow!! :whistle: