Valve Shims

650ed wrote: Also, before you remove either camshaft make a mark on the camshaft and chain that shows exactly where the chain sits on the camshaft (you may also want to take a photo of that mark). That way, when you put the camshaft back in you will be positive that it is turned to the original position to retain the valve timing. Ed

Thanks Ed, I'll do that. as I've never done this before, with regards to timing, that's all there is to mess up, right? If the crankshaft is in the same exact position pre- and post- adjustment, and the timing chain remains in the same position relative to the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets(i.e., those marks I'll make match up), all is well . Correct?

Do you have a manual?
Steve

There's other stuff you can mess up; especially if you do not have the Kawasaki service Manual. For example, if you don't have a manual and a PROPER torque wrench calibrated in INCH pounds you can easily strip the threads in the cylinder head that the cam cap bolts thread into. Also, stuff a rag in the camshaft chain tunnel before removing the cam cap bolts. More than 1 person has dropped a bolt down into that abyss and found it very difficult to retrieve. Ed

Another way,... besides marking,... to make sure the cam chain does not jump a tooth on the cam shaft is to use a wire tie to hold the chain against the cam shaft. loop it around the outside of the chain thru a hole in the cam shaft gear.

But the main issue that always gets me is making sure the cam chain does not jump a tooth on the bottom end when you start lifting the cams out of the way. be careful to keep tension on the chain when moving the cams out of the way.

Hot Cams sells a 13mm shim kit for about $75.00. It doesn't take long for a few individual shims to add up to that price. The real value is when you got everything apart and find out you're missing the size you need.

Amen. I always buy the next size down when ordering shims just for that reason. I now have the full set.
Steve

The good news is that the Kawasaki shim and bucket valve train system is very robust; there is a wide tolerance range for the clearance (.08 - .18mm) and this range is conservative from the standpoint of preserving the life of the engine since valves tighten with use and .08mm is still quite a bit of clearance.

Bad news is the amount of misinformation on how to properly adjust the valves is quite remarkable. The proper way to position the cams is detailed in the factory Kawasaki service manual. Failing to follow this method will result in the incorrect measurement results. For example, the Clymers specified method of pointing the cam lobe away from the bucket is WRONG. The Kawasaki method will put both adjacent valves on the cams base circle, and allow you to measure both valves without repositioning the cams. This method assures the most consistent measurement results.

Regarding removing the cams, I strongly advice using vice grips to clamp the cams down into the head before you attempt to remove/install the camshaft bearing caps. This greatly reduces stress on the threads. When torquing the cap screws on reassembly, go easy. There are a LOT of threads on this subject so do some research before you mess something up. Most people feel 75 in-lbs is plenty of torque and I agree. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet is advised if you don't have a torque wrench. Less is more when it comes to tightening these screws.

You guys do realize this thread is over 8 years old.

baldy110 wrote: You guys do realize this thread is over 8 years old.

Well, I'm sure they do... the first poster after the last reply 8 years ago clearly stated he was going to revive the original posting.

missionkz wrote:

baldy110 wrote: You guys do realize this thread is over 8 years old.

Well, I'm sure they do... the first poster after the last reply 8 years ago clearly stated he was going to revive the original posting.

That was the thought, yes - keep the relevant information all in the same place.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll be sure to follow it. I do have a torque wrench and a service manual, so I should be OK there.

Thanks all for the great advice. I'll be doing this work in a couple days, when I have time on the weekend. Will be sure to put it all to good use, and report back after. Thanks Nessism, swest, mdz, jim, 650ed, and zed.