Can you use Restore when u change oil?

Matter of fact, I seemed to recall Slick 50 getting in hot water on a number of issues, so I did .003 second google on it and found this.

Doesn't havew much of anything to do with wet clutches, but does have something to say about their marketing claims...

Quaker State Subsidiaries Settle FTC Charges Against Slick 50
Agreement Safeguards $10 Million in Redress to Consumers

Three subsidiaries of Quaker State Corp. have agreed to settle Federal Trade Commission charges that ads for Quaker State's Slick 50 Engine Treatment were false and unsubstantiated. Under the terms of the settlement, the companies will be barred from making certain claims and required to have substantiation for claims about the performance, benefits, efficacy or attributes of their engine lubricant products. In addition, the settlement will preserve the Commission's option to seek consumer redress if class action suits currently being litigated against Quaker State and its subsidiaries result in less than $10 million in consumer redress.

Full Text Here

Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2007/04/19 14:44

Pterosaur wrote:

RonKZ650 wrote:

It's kind of hard to imagine Slick50 doing any harm. It's been a long time but wasn't Slick50 basically 95% oil and 5% additives some of which was teflon? This mixed 1 quart in an oil change of 5 quarts would net about a 1% total teflon in the system or so at the most.

Well, as I said before, the nightmares I've seen it cause were in older motors where some genius figured he'd get a $19.95 overhaul-in-a-can.

ANY inert partiulate you cram into a sludged-up motor is gonna add to its problems.

The wet clutch and additives thing is mostly just a liability thing and the fact companys don't care to test the products with a wet clutch since it's not a major market for them.

I'd suppose that's true.

But what I'm more worried about is *you* - you feeling okay? For such a normally dyed-in-the-wool OEM kinda guy, you're sure taking an *aftermarket* stand on things... kzrider.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/sick1.gif [/img]

dont worry ron im here to pull you back from the edge.forget the wife and kids do it for the blue 650 ! the only thing id reccomend for an oil change on a bike is good oil and a filter,if youve got grooves worn in the crank journals and cylinder walls like the grand canyon there aint no amount of crap youre gonna dump in there to fix it!if you have a good solid low mileage motor motorcycle specific synthetic oil works good but other than that id say save your money for a rebuild;)

Post edited by: wireman, at: 2007/04/19 14:57

An interesting page on oils and additives from carbibles.com ...

Part of which says:

Your Opinion: A Ford Engineer contacts carbibles.com about additives
Some of the things in your site are true like the pure baloney that additive companies put out. I have been with Ford for 24 years in research and development for their power train division. I have forgotten more lube problems than 90% of so-called mechanics will ever know. I like the way some mechanics make statements like they're some sort of God without being able to back them up. All that mallarkey in some of the feedback above claiming 800,000 miles on a gas engine are laughable. There is so much that goes into producing engine oil that dumping "magic" additives into it is just criminal. The quality of most addatives is questionable at best. Whilst the names may be similar, the quality is not. Additives are blended at the proper rate, heat and in the proper proportions by the manufactures of their particular product. Crude supplies are not all the same quality and the additives have to be adjusted for the quality of the base stock being used by each particular company, per batch. Dumping your own personal stuff will more than likely be way inferior to what the oil manufacturer uses. The chemicals will normally differ from the manufacturers blend, and can cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left in the product. (This is one reason it's not wise to mix oils from different manufacturers together). Changing the oil from say Mobil to Shell and then to Pennzoil will have a negative effect on your engine from conflicting chemicals. Buy an oil that you may like and STICK TO THAT COMPANY'S product.

Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2007/04/19 15:35