Cylinder De-glazing Tool

I would just hone the cylinder that you are putting new rings in. If you do them all, sometimes the old rings will not seat properly and they will wear out quick. I would buy a "bottle brush" hone as they tend to be more forgiving than a 3 or 4 stone hone. Check out Harbor Freight or ebay for a hone.

Sarge

thanks i'm set ...harbor freights got one for under twenty and i'm gonna take a ride over now....thanks for the tips....peacesnorules wrote:

I would just hone the cylinder that you are putting new rings in. If you do them all, sometimes the old rings will not seat properly and they will wear out quick. I would buy a "bottle brush" hone as they tend to be more forgiving than a 3 or 4 stone hone. Check out Harbor Freight or ebay for a hone.

Sarge

sunset in carmel ca...just for kicks...peace

wow ive never tried that route but id suggest honing all 4 holes that way you know they will all seal atleast.id suggest checking the ring gap on the other holes atleast as long as its apart just to be safe.

also use a ball hone and the cross hatch should be about 60 degrees and wash the cylinder in hot soapy water as hot as you can stand the toilet brush works great to clean the sleeves when you are totally clean shoot wd-40 or some kind or preservative on it to keep it from rusting as it is cast and it will start to corrode instantly don't worry about that it will come off the instant you fire the bike the first time. also one other thing use lint free white paper towels and wash themuntil no grit or carbon are visable on the towel when you wipe it down.

ill do that one better.get a couple rolls of white toilet paper spray a handfull of it down with carb cleaner and use it to wipe down the cylinders till you dont get anymore crud,toilet paper wont leave lint in the bores.

I recently honed a stock set of cylinders using a ball-type hone, and it came out very nice. Engine oil(cheapest 30w out there), and for about 5-10 seconds at a time. Check the surface, and do it again. Came out nice and well within tolerances.





And for Giggles

i went to salinas ,ca..(more parts stores) and tried harbor freight and it was a cheap, paddle, mech expand type....went to auto zone,,kragen...napa..nice ride....saw 15 mexicans getting ready to fight jumpin outta three cars,in the middle of 3:00 traffic at a four way light...rode right thru em,,,,unbelievable....f$%$%%^^^& assholes... called machine shops ect...all paddle type or way too big...
i'm gonna buy a flex -hone online like cory showed in his pic..and a half pint of hone oil...to waste some money...was hoping to have it by tomorrow ...guess not....thanks plummen and timebomb33 i'll try the t.p and cleaner...you really think i should run a hone in em all and clean em hugh..o.k...and i'll check the rings and see if they are within...specs....thanks...i know i should do this more pro...i just wanna get it back together before i stall on it...too many directions on the dif bikes...wanna complete the motor swap em and focus on the j1000...thanks guys.....gotta love the gang bangers...carmel and monterey are paradise ...15 minutes away is salinas and the produce capital of the world.....we have had 4 murders allready this year and one grocery got masked robbers twice in one week...little girl peed her pants when they ran in...F!@@## assholes...monterey 0 muders all year....youngsters killing youngsters...middle east mentality...kill one to revenge the last one...just incredible...rant over:angry:

that sucks monterrey and carmel were nice places 20 years ago when i was stationed there!

I always hone my barrels in a solvent parts washer. Good flow to carry the crud away and keep everything nice and clean. I have 2 of those 3 leg Lisle hones (1 small,1 larger) that I've had for years but I just might plunge and buy one of those ball hones for a job I'm currently doing.
Downside with the ball hones is that unless you've got the proper size to hand, you've gotta go out and buy another one.
As posted by others, the cleaning afterward is VERY important. Ya gotta get all that crud out of the cross hatching...or your new rings will go for shite real quick, never mind getting all that crud into the rest of the engine.:ohmy:

i would play the percentages and hone all 4, just to be sure.
Dont forget to gap the new rings. .003" to .004" per inch of bore.
How about weighing those pistons and ballancing them? if u happen to have access to a scale. and smooth any sharpe edges off the pistons.
Do u know what the stock deck height is for your motor? How many thow the edge of the piston sits bellow the deck?

i will do the hone on all four and am now just waiting on tues for an order from enginehone co. ...they were great to do buiss with and got right back to me with a order link and it was cheaper than e-bay and the grit and size was double checked correct by them ...23 bucks is fine with me...
i will take your advice and locate access to a scale and look for the obviuos dif on any heavier pistons castings...
lastely...i see you guys talking about decking sometimes and am clueless....i was gonna check my piston i.d#s for a compression ref # and hope to access a link for a wiseco 71mm xc kit and see if they call for a clearance mod on a stocker 73 z-1 installation...i was waiting to get all the ducks in a row to cross this bridge as i allready feel kinda needy picking your guys brains all so much....i half thought"hell build it ,torque it down and trun it over slow by hand" and try and feel if it nicks the tops cold...then figuered i better check some when all parts arrive and not be an ass any more than needed.........thanks guys..peace