Winter storage

I need to store the bike outside under a carport and we can have minus degrees during the winter, plan:

1. Clean the bike properly
2. Clean the chain and grease it up
3. Have some exstra psi in the tires.
4. Replace oil and filter
5. Fill the tank full as posibel and add some heet (avoid cond. And water in the tank).
6. Take out the spark plugs and add some small amount of motor oil in the spark plug wholes and then turn over the engine some times manualy.
7. Store the bike on the mid. Support and not the side one.
8. Have some wd45 on parts who can start to rust..,
9. Drain off the carbs.
10. use a user blanket to cover the bike (good vantilation)


Is these a good plan?

Not bad, but a much better plan is simply don't store it over the winter. Instead, start the bike once per week and run the engine for 20 minutes or so until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Then shut off the gas and run it for a couple minutes, then shut off the engine. That's what I've done with my KZ650 in the winter for the past 20+ years, and it works extremely well for me. It keeps the battery charged, keeps oil on the cylinder walls, and prevents gum from forming in the carbs. Another plus is that when the first warm day of spring arrives I know the bike is ready to ride since it hasn't been in hibernation over the winter. Ed

I think you have a solid plan Gordone. Only thing I would add is to disconnect the battery, move it inside if you can. Do NOT store it on concrete if you remove it. Put a board or something to insulate it under the battery if you remove it. If you leave it in the bike, disconnect it.

650ed wrote: Not bad, but a much better plan is simply don't store it over the winter. Instead, start the bike once per week and run the engine for 20 minutes or so until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Then shut off the gas and run it for a couple minutes, then shut off the engine. That's what I've done with my KZ650 in the winter for the past 20+ years, and it works extremely well for me. It keeps the battery charged, keeps oil on the cylinder walls, and prevents gum from forming in the carbs. Another plus is that when the first warm day of spring arrives I know the bike is ready to ride since it hasn't been in hibernation over the winter. Ed

Thank you.
You will not get condensation issue starting so often when its cold? These is not a issue as long you running it for long enougf time?

As long as you run it long enough to heat the engine and oil I don't think condensation will be an issue. On mine by the time the ends of the mufflers get pretty warm to the touch most of any condensation seems to be gone. Ed

Good plan, + 1 on keeping the battery charged.
This may be a sin but I don't drain my carb bowls :dry: if you add Heet to the tank it would be good to ride a few miles to run it through the system.

Do they have fuel stabilizers in your part of the world? If so, I'd use that. Sta-bil is popular. Use a heavy dosage and run the engine so you know it's all through the carbs, then stop and drain the carbs.

Regarding running the engine occasionally through the winter, I wouldn't do it. There will be condensation forming in the exhaust among other places which is not good. Ed's bike seems to be surviving regardless, but technically I see no good coming from it.

I've owned my bike since it was new (41+ years) and it still has the original exhaust; there is no rust. I believe the key is letting the bike run long enough to get the engine and exhaust system hot. At that point any condensation that would have been in the system evaporates and is gone. I can only say that the method I described works well for me. Ed

Thank you, I just assumed we have, need to check

Each time the temperature drops below condens point will water be released from the air, so I see the logic behind not starting up the bike more then I need.

Snowmobile fogging oil. inside the mufflers & cylinders. maybe inside the fuel tank as well.
Thick towels. I had stored a good set of carburetors for years, wrapped in thick towels. The carbs looked perfect when I took them out.
So maybe wrap the headlight & meters with thick towels & maybe wrap the carburetors as well.
Stuff a small towel inside the airbox opening.


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Around here we have a problem with rodents storing food and living in hide away places like exhaust pipes and air filters.
I don't like doing it but I keep bait traps in my shed with the tractor and tiller because of chewed wires and nests.
Plug holes

And that would be a downside to my idea of using towels. I know that mice like to use cloth as nesting material.



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