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Got most of the paint removed from the upper case.



Still needs a going over to remove whats left and hit the corrosion with some lube using fine steel wool.
 

Got most of the paint removed from the lower case.



Still needs a going over to remove whats left, and not as much corrosion on this compared to the upper so it will need less work.

Will go over both of them with M6/M8 taps to clean out all the threads.
 

Not much done lately, been working on another bike.

I did sand some engine covers the other night and made up this aluminum tray to hang the Dyna3 off the bottom of the battery box.



I enlarged the Dyna box holes to take a M4 sized rod, ran a die over both ends for some nylock nuts.

Its mounted off the battery tray from existing holes one thru that drain well, I made a standoff to support it flat. Its isolated with rubber foam and after this picture I put some heat shrink on the wires instead of that electrical tape.
 

Don't worry about the 650 purists, you're building a really cool hot rod bike.  We Z1 owners will love it.  When I built my 1947 Ford hotrod 20 years ago I put in a small block chevy engine, muncie 4 speed and an S10 rear axle.  I've always let the Ford purist bitching go in one ear and out the other.  

Scotty

I have seven 650's in total, only two are stock. 50 wheel HP is just not enough to entertain me, that's why most of them are modified.

I also like to build different stuff. I hot rodded my 85' GMC S15. The stock 2.8L V6 was 110hp, now it's making about 240hp. It's pretty quick, fun to drive and still gets about 16mpg even when I'm beating on it. It doesn't look like anything special but that's the point.

Been busy at my Sons house installing new hardwood floors and baseboards. Will be able to get back on this project once the dust settles.

I am also trying to work on my main ride at the moment as well. I need to swap a few parts on it before I fire it up since pulling it out of storage last week.





Carbs got pulled off it last fall. Want to swap the cam chain tensioner before they go back on.
Also need to put a newer oil pump in it, different oil pan, and a small oil cooler.
All that needs to be done before I will ride it again.

Bought some replacement tires, Shinko 230's front and rear. Price was right and they seem better than what I have on the rims currently.



Old tires are 12 year old Kenda Challengers, only issue was wet performance. Needed to change them even thought they do not have a lot of miles on them, they don't inspire any confidence.

When you try your new tires let us know what you think of them.  I'll be buying tires later this summer and Shinko 230's are what I'm leaning toward.

Scotty

Got back to working on this project today. Started by chasing the threads on the upper case half casting.

When I was disassembling this engine I noted one of the outer crank case bolts on the points side was stripped.

Today when I was chasing the threads I realized just how bad the PO had tried to fix that buggered thread.

I don't know how this could have happened but that hole has been put oval by drilling on a angle then tapping with a M8? What I see here is baffling!! Whoever did this drilled too deep and ran into the oil galley line that feeds the crank/top end. The drill was angled towards the crank center line. This is not a regular thread repair, probably looking at making a blind threaded insert to seal that oil feed and put that hole back to a straight M8.



Problem hole location



Light shining thru where it should not go (must have been pissing oil badly)

Was sizing it up and I believe a 7/16-14 bolt should be able to help me fix this.
Fixture this flat on the mill and use a 3/8" end mill to do the tap drill hole for the bolt. Blind tap the bolt M8 then insert the bolt using some sealing compound, then cut the bolt off flush with the top of the gasket surface.

Some people should not be allowed to hold tools! Brutal...
 

They are out there.

Love my 230's.