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Got a better photograph and the front fender is on now. 

And yes, I checked, and the front tire is on the correct way. 

It runs! After absolutely nothing went easy on just simply getting a battery and gas in it, I finally fired it up for the first time this evening. up above 2500rpm's it doesn't sound to my ear like there is any issues. However, the lower I let it down below that there's a distinct rattle. My first guess is that it's the cam chain tensioner. We all know how bad those things can be, so I already ordered up a manual one. But here's a few quick videos, and I'm hoping you guys can listen and tell me if you have any ideas.

The first is just a few seconds of running, because whoohoo! In this video it's "idling" at about 3500rpm, because my dumb ass forgot that there's an idle set knob on the left hand side of the carbies. 
 

And here in this second video is after I've set the idle down to around 1500rpm, where it should be idling. You ought to be able to hear the rattle pretty easily.
 

So what you guys think? Cam chain, or something else?

Sounds like a worn or broken cam chain guide.

Looking for some help again. The turn signals aren’t working. 

At first the right one would work, but flashed a little faster than normal. Meanwhile the left side would flash so fast it was like a strobe, and the flasher relay itself would make a buzzing sound. The first thing you’re probably thinking is that I must have installed LED signals, but they are not. They’re just regular bulbs. 

So I installed a new flasher relay, and now neither turn signal is working at all. 

For reference, here’s the turn signals I installed: 
4into1.com/black-aluminum-turn-signals-s...-lens-dual-filament/
4into1.com/black-aluminum-turn-signals-s...ens-single-filament/

And here’s the flasher relay I put in:
https:/japan.webike.net/products/21565259.html

I know I probably need to get in there with a multimeter and check connections, but I don’t know what connections to check where, and if I’m checking for voltage or continuity or what. Could it be a fuse problem? 

I’m tempted to swap my signals and relay over from my other bike because I know they’re good, just to see if that shows me anything. But I’m hoping there’s some other way to solve this issue. 

The first thing I would suggest is disconnect the flasher relay and bridge the two terminals (ideally with a 10amp fuse in your bridge link) operate the switch left and right, you should see front and back plus warning light for each side respectively (all at normal brightness) this is a quick and dirty test of the wiring and switch. Also at the same time connect a voltmeter red to battery positive and black to the bridge link - you should see no more than 0.5v if all is well
Edit: Just had a look at the  turn signals you are using
What is the point of the dual filament (is this as marker lights on the front) ?
What wattage are they rated at ?
If the switch and wiring check out ok you might want to go with a three wire non-load sensing flasher relay as the two wire is sensitive to bulb wattage

When you say “bridge link” you just mean whatever it is (10amp fuse) that I’m using to connect the terminals right? 

And which two terminals get bridged? The relay has three. 

Stereordinary wrote:

When you say “bridge link” you just mean whatever it is (10amp fuse) that I’m using to connect the terminals right? 

And which two terminals get bridged? The relay has three. 

The relay should have an ign feed in and an output to the switch - these are the two to bridge (use a piece of wire with a fuse in it - crimp spade connectors fit on a blade fuse)
I suspect the third wire is a ground (depends on the unit being used)

Tried to do what you suggested this morning, and the fuse blew. I’m not completely confident that I did it right, so i picked up some more fuses this morning, and plan to try again. 

To clarify, what am I supposed to do with the ground? Should I run a wire from it to the chassis? 

Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike (usually Kawasaki ign live to the flasher is orange and the output to the switch is orange/green) with regards the 3 wire, you don't do anything with that for the bridge test as all you are doing is taking the relay out of the circuit to check the switch and wiring. The third wire is dependent on the unit you are using (some go to the panel light some go to ground) did you get wiring instructions with the relay you bought?

Thanks for your help with this Wookie. If we ever get a chance to meet in person, I owe your a beer.

Repeated the test, this time without being stupid. I'm sure the reason I blew the fuse last time was because I had the spade connectors in the wrong slots. With a new test fuse in the correct connectors, the right side lights up front and back, but the left side I'm only getting the front turn signal. I think that must mean I have an issue with the left rear turn signal, maybe it's defective, or I just need to check the connections.

Interestingly, before I bought the Koso flasher relay from Webike, I had purchased a universal relay from Sparck Moto, but never even tried it out because it only has two prongs instead of three. I assumed that meant it wouldn't work. But I tried plugging it in, and lo and behold the signals work like they're supposed to except for that faulty rear left. 

Makes me think maybe the problem has something to do with the ground wire coming in to the connector. But if it works with just the two-prong relay, and nothing plugged into the ground connector, is that ok? 

If they are flashing at the correct speed and the dash warning lights are working also then you are good to go with the 2 pin (the third pin is specific to some units, especially those that aren't load sensitive but you aren't using LED's anyway) Would still like to see a wiring diagram for "peace of mind"

Hopefully this is clear enough.